FAQ: Hyde Park Cats

My Cat Acts Crazy

2012-02-15T12:21:00.000-08:00

Q: My cat is a handful. S/he ...

> attacks legs
> tears stuff up
> acts crazy

What should I do?

Answers from our list-serve. Do you have a tip we can list?

Please note: We are not veterinarians, only cat owners and lovers. If your cat is exhibiting a sudden change in behavior, you might want to call your vet. DO NOT physically discipline your cat (hitting, etc). It will not work and will only make your cat avoid you.

TIPS for CRAY-CRAY CATS

Get a water squirter. Squirt the cat whenever an unwanted behavior occurs. Don't squirt into eyes.

When my cat was younger, he would destroy the shower curtain when we would
leave for work...every day. So I got him a friend and that solved the problem.

Another issue is that might be that he's hungry: young, active cats need more food
and will sometimes act wildly in an effort to let you know that they are hungry.

Make sure the cat has enough toys, including a really robust scratcher. Like something he can attack! The reclaimed-wood cat trees at Parkers are FANTASTIC. He needs something he can pummel and kick and scratch. He is a cat.

He also needs a man's sport sock stuffed with another sock which is stuffed with catnip that he can kick.

We have some sisal scratchers, too—having a few around helps. Our cat is three; he goes through toys like a whirlwind, so we just adjusted our toy budget. ;) He attacks our feet if he isn’t getting regular play sessions, so a buddy or a couple of daily 10-minute plays with a bungee-type toy (like Da Bird) could help.

my cats also love their reclaimed wood cat tree from parkers pets. one of my favorite purchases ever. i haven't had a problem with them really scratching anything else with that in my home. my previous cats loved a large utility wood shelf that i had for a long time. it was relatively inexpensive, but also functional. when they had destroyed the front two pieces of wood enough i turned it around and they went to town on the other side.

also, as a knitter, i made my cats a toy made out of different sized balls of yarn with different lengths of yarn to attach them all to a handle. they would attack that with gusto and would work out alot of energy with that toy.

I've also just discovered phermone spray and calming treats. They seem to work well with my needy/hyper cat.

I purchased this from Amazon and my cats are OBSESSED with it: thing from Amazon It has kind of a high price tag, but it could be worth it if it keeps the cat from destroying valuable things.

Also, I know it sounds silly, but my cat has a human-sized stuffed animal (ok not human-sized, but FOR humans) that he LOVES. He wrestles with it all time time. Maybe try rubbing one with some catnip to get him used to the idea. It could help with his urge to attack things. (I seriously put this stuffed animal away every morning and when I come home in the evening, the thing is on my bed or strewn somewhere on the floor.)

Bird feeder for "kitty TV"

check to see if some outside stimulus is making your cat crazy. For example, perhaps a neighboring cat is coming to your window and it is making your cat upset.

Elphie

2012-01-10T07:59:00.000-08:00

Purr machine Elphie came from Tanya's tribe on 67th and Cornell. While she doesn't enjoy a party of strangers, she absolutely adores her fostermom and loves sitting on top of her purring non-stop. She enjoys exploring and quickly found a way to the top of the closet and other exciting places to perch. She is about a year old now, spayed and up-to-date on shots.

Siamese Cats at AWL

2011-11-16T18:10:00.000-08:00

Gorgeous siamese and siamese mixes at AWL (62nd and Wabash)! They are all very friendly and affectionate and would love a home. The animals there only have two ways out: to be "pulled" by a rescue organization (who will offer them for adoption through their own program) or to be euthanized.

Facebook album of some of the cats at AWL.

Mama Cat and Kittens!

2011-11-10T10:32:00.000-08:00

Last month, we were asked to help with a very friendly mama cat who had four kittens in the Kenwood/Marquette area. Fortunately, Elphie had been adopted so fostermom Irene's home was available. The variety box kittens are all very adorable and sweet and playful. We are very pleased that they are all safe and warm in this weather. Please consider adopting mama cat plus un bebeh.

Roger the foodie

2011-10-19T18:46:00.000-07:00

Roger is an adorable spunky and frisky young male cat. He loooves food (cat food, dog food, mangos, burritos, sushi...really anything he sees people eating seems to be fair game) and even bites into a mango! Besides food, his other love is playtime. He loves playing with string and acts like a feisty, overgrown kitten during playtime. He's also generous with kisses when in a snuggly mood enjoying chin scratches and the occasional tummy rub. His love for food makes him easy to train -- it took him exactly 5 minutes and 5 treats to figure out that the scratching post is waaaaay cooler than the rug. He will also roll on his back and grab your hand and vigorously wash it :) Roger is FIV+, but can lead a long, healthy life in a stable forever home. He's neutered, up to date on shots, and ready to bring the fun and excitement into his furrever home!

Curly

2011-10-17T18:49:00.001-07:00

Curly is an ultra-friendly kitty from the Pullman neighborhood. He is very, very happy to finally be inside! Curly has been fixed and vaccinated and is FIV+. FIV+ cats can live long contented life even with other cats. He is extremely sweet and vocal and has a curly tail which curls up tightly like a pigtail - so much so that we almost wonder if he is some sort of curly-tailed kitty breed. Curly had to belong to someone at some point as he loves people, but has been on the streets for at least a couple of years. He is about 4 years old and ready for a furrever home of his own today!

ADOPTED!

2011-07-18T13:36:00.000-07:00

ADOPTED!

Aurelia
Fergus
Lucy
Sunny
Uhaul (2nd timer)
Cava
Clark
Bubbles
Paxton
Octavia and Livia
Patches
Grady
Jojo
Ellison (foster failure)
Tasha (foster failure)
Pinot (foster failure)
Chianti
Marcus (foster failure)
Ashland (foster failure)
Tuco
Sitwell
Cricket
Taylor
Gretchen
Talullah
Ako (foster failure)
Cowtens: Hugh Heifer and Madame Bovary
Oni
Tabe
Nero
Anna Conda
Odin
Ophelia and Susana (kitten pair)
Ingram and Babette
Whimsey
Shayna
Robin
Augustus
Jane
Wednesday
Tiberias
Chandler
Buckley
Domino

Sundae
Polly
Afi
Evan
April's five kittens
Antonia
Madison (fosterfailure)
Maria
(fosterfailure) Take a chance on Maria! video!
Capri
Else and Fritz
Sylvester
Nico
Zoe
Lara (foster failure)
Ilaria
Dan Ryan
(foster failure)
Coco Chanel (foster failure)
Eclipse
Justin (foster failure)
Meshi
Sahara
Brie and Cheddar
Templeton
Frida
Carmen
Capt. Jack Sparrow
Alba
Bewick
Oatmeal
Marlo
A HPCats "insider" favorite. Foster failure.
Bridget
Sampson
Kenya
Raindrop
Kalla
Hidey and Minion
Effi
Strawberry
Chinchilla
Tinsel
Ray Lee
Penny
Rigoli
Bullseye and Cucumber
Hiccup
Leo Lionni (foster failure)
Lola
Eemo and Gomo
Cleo and Darius
Benji
Ollie
Cinquo
Iggy
Ginger
Ramses and Tut (brother pair)
Charlie and sister Ruthie
Arancio (George) (foster failure)
Louis le Roi
Zucca
Rain
Kalla
Jada
Siegel
Cassie and Kio
Cato and Vania
Officer Fancy Pants
Clover
Raygn and Storm
Shofar and Shanah (pair)
Firefly
Rosetta (now Tractor)(foster failure)
Sepia
Harper
Apples and Honey
Sophie
Minou
Tashma
Achilles and Istria
Pattie and Tricia
Peanut
Pymand Luna.
Sfama (now Edwina)
Fawn
Mouse & Tigger
Roo and Tux
Juniper
Dudley (now Calvin)
Eko and Sawyer (Dharma kittens)
Hurley (Dharma kitten)
Amos
Lydia
Rainbow and Poe
Minette and Martha
Kobi
Rabbit and Piglet (Sophie kittens)
Rousseau (Dharma kitten)
Moses
Lemon (Lennon) (now Tucker)
Megiddo (Mr. Cat)
Acorn and Butternut
Apple
Caesar
Holly
Sweet Pea
Leif (now Bulk)
Chutney and Mango (Sweet Pea kittens)
Toto and Rex (Juniper kittens)
Fido and Roxy (Juniper kittens)
Pistou and Truffle (Sweet Pea kittens)
Owl
Theo (foster failure)
Ester
Yogurt and Pretzel
Houdini
Louise
Maggie
Trixie
Midgie
Mickey
Baby
Loki
Tiger Macabbee
Bella (foster failure)
Judah (now Baxter)
Nena/Carmella (broken leg kitty)
Remus (now Baba)
Viola and Sebastian (now Cohen and Leonard)
Akiba (foster failure)
Tapioca
Kiwi and Mango
Avocado and Coconut
Cat Cora
Karma
Kindle
Connie
Moe (now Jane)
Twinkletoes (now Graham)
Swift
Figi (now Fredo)
Pants
Mamacat
> Mamacat's five kittens: Igby, Big Boy, Little Tiger, Fuzzy/Bokeh, Pierrot/Hattie/Olive
Shadow
Daisy the tortie
Portia the porchcat
Libby (fosterfailure : ))
Sherlock
Mama n’ 4 King kittens: Yum Yum, Robbie, Scottie, Jessie
Jersey
Neko

ADOPTIONS we partnered on
Tudor and Timbre
pix
Three Tinker Kittens
Prairie
Shia
Avy
Richmond
Persephone
Mimi
Kady
Rajah
Scooter "Candy" Man
Kenwood
Brownie
Pumpkin from Feline Friends
Foxy from Feline Friends
Foxy
Shorty
Willie and Lily

Went to PAWS to find their forever family

Freddie
Dottie
Bubbles
Sandie 4/30/10
Vedanta (Roofus)
Toby (3/20)
Little Women Cats:
> Jo
> Theo
> Beth
Little Women Cats
DeeBee (Eudora)
Prima
Sparle -- adopted! In two days! See an update!
Rosie
Andy-- adopted! See an update!
Clooney
Hoppy
Ori (adopted by a Hyde Park family)
Rosie
Brushki
Hecuba
Celia
Pumpernickel
Valentine
Feste
Curio
The Pullman Four
Magee
Moggy
Terry
Ronnie
Norman of Orange
Molly Molasses

Went to Treehouse

Ashton
Qwerty
James Bond
Lulav/Sun Pacific
Lulav
Mimi
Czarzina
Lucia Clara

Went to another shelter or rescue

Patches
Sachari
Elijah (feral cat rescue)
Pushkin RIP 2010)
Kislev

RIP

Duke
Xavier
Sophia
Sophia's Kitten
Zane
Reese's Pieces (7.2011)
Aki
Spalding
Nadia
Black kitty, perhaps hit by car (5.31.10)
Maxime et Maurice
Freckles
Willa
King
Oliver
Cornflakes
Admiral Adama
Sonnet
Butterscotch
Stanley
Finzi
Maxime et Maurice
Freckles (5.10; tiniest Dharma kitten) ... Ester's third (4.10)
Willa (5.10)
King (4.14.10)
Black kitty at 54th (4.10)
Oliver
Cornflakes
Admiral Adama
Balthasar
Bacharach
Finzi
Tiny construction kitten with black and white paws

Our TNR list

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This is code that needs to be inserted into the above list:

Ramses and Tut
Charlie and Ruthie
Raygn and Storm
Rosetta
Eko and Sawyer
Hurley
Rabbit and Piglet
Rousseau
Leif
Chutney and Mango

Pistou and Truffle
Trixie
Midgie
Baby
Tiger Maccabee
Judah (Baxter)
None
Nena/Carmella
Remus (baba)
Remus
/www.blogger.com/%20http://hydeparkcats.blogspot.com/2009/09/viola-and-sebastian.html%20">Viola and Sebastian
Akiba
Tapioca
Kiwi and Mango
Avocado and Coconut
Cat Cora
Karma
Kindle
Connie
Moe
Twinkletoes
Swift
Figi
Pants
Mamacat and 5 Kittens
Shadow
Daisy
Portia
Libby
Sherlock
Mama and 4 King Kittens
Jersey
Neko
Vedanta
Toby

Stella and Pond!

2011-07-04T20:34:00.001-07:00

Stella and her kitten Pond were living outside in Pilsen being fed by a grad student before a kind person agreed to foster the adorable pair thus saving them from the harsh street life. Stella is very friendly and had been somebody's pet at one point. She especially loves having her ears rubbed. She's just a year old herself. Pond is a bit on the shyer side but is very playful and enjoys the cat dancer toy.

Roger Has All the Love!

2011-06-27T20:55:00.001-07:00

Playcat-boy Roger is one companionable kitty! He follows fostermom Hamsini around the apartment and always sleeps near her on the bed. He enjoys his toys, and frisks around like a kitten at night. He looooves interactive playtime during the day! He loves to play-fight, but is pretty gentle with teeth and claws. He's not the biggest fan of laps, but will tolerate them on occasion. He is generous with kisses. He also has a new nickname--Roger Rabbit, or Bunny for short, because he's got a pretty powerful kick in his backlegs (and because of the way he hops around when he plays). He is tolerant of dogs as well as covergirls. He is FIV positive but will lead a long healthy perfectly happy life!

Tinker's Kittens Princess, Chief Waffle, and Albert!

2011-06-22T19:44:00.000-07:00

AVAILABLE FOR ADOPTION!!! Tinker's three kittens are adorable and playful and oh so cute! Email hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com today and reserve your kitten to avoid disappointment!

Afikomen and Oni

2011-06-02T05:59:00.001-07:00

Afikomen and Oni, two girl kittens. CUTEST. EVER.

Why doesn't Hyde Park Cats provide petsitting services?

2011-05-08T16:24:00.000-07:00

Hyde Park Cats does not provide petsitting services. We have no shelter. Our rescue works entirely out of foster homes. Each one of our foster homes is a private individual who volunteers to take in homeless cats until we can find them permanent homes.

In addition, the majority of our fosterers are students. Many of them are not available for fostering for periods longer than a few months due to travel and because they are volunteers we are obliged to consider their needs. Therefore, we cannot commit to keeping a cat in
one foster home for any specific period. Our foster cats frequently must move from one foster home to another. This is certainly not ideal. It is a necessary evil and better than life on the street or being euthanized in a shelter.

The most pertinent reason we do not provide long term petsitting services for a fee is that we choose to use all of our foster homes to house homeless cats. When a foster home is available we can say yes to a cat that was just found starving on the street or we pull cats dumped at high-volume kill shelters and avoid euthanasia. If we were housing your cats in a foster home for several months - we would have to say no to those homeless cats. The number of cats we can help is directly proportional to the number of foster homes we have available and there is no surplus of foster homes.

If you need long term petsitting services advertise on Uchicago Marketplace seeking a longterm petsitter for kitties. You may just find someone who wants to have cats but cannot commit for the long term. Interview and ask for references! Also, send out a mass email to every single
person you know explaining your situation and asking for help. Maybe you will find a good friend who can take them in.

Available for Adoption

2011-05-07T14:24:00.000-07:00

Adopted!

Available for Adoption

OUR ADOPTION APPLICATION IS NOW ONLINE. CLICK HERE TO APPLY ONLINE. Or write to hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com.

KITTENS

Stella and Pond mother and child.

"Vintage" Kittens
Available: Riesling . (must be adopted to a home with a resident cat or with another of our kitties available for adoption).

YOUNG and ADULT CATS

April
Gorgeous long-haired black and white young lady.

Charlotte

Curly
Ultra-friendly male kitten who is extremely sweet and vocal and has a tail which curls up like a pigtail! FIV positive and can live a long healthy life (as an indoor cat, please).

Elphie
Sweet purring calico gal. Kittenish and gets along with other cats.

Gretchen
A-dor-able sweet white/tiger girl.

Heartie
Shy but sweet white-with-tiger adult female seeking a home with another feline.

Kitty
Sweet, calm adult tabby female.

Laffey
Orange and white kitten (male).

Lynx
Tiger and white male, very sweet guy.

Meeka
Loving young calico girl.

Monster
A big big boy, a big armful of catlove.

Ocee
Tigerish young female, sweet and playful. Not too keen on other cats but is a real person-lover.

Olive
Shy but sweet tuxedo girl.

Orange Cat
Independent minded but loving adult male cat. Guess what, he's orange. FIV+ and will prefer to be the only cat.

Paulina
Retiring tiger girl who is seeking a patient person to love her.

Picasso
Tiger and white male LUVBUG. He's a big boy and is very calm!

Roger
Young orange-tabby male with a unique "bulldog" look and amazing whiskers. Purr machine! FIV+ and can live a long healthy life (as an indoor cat, please). Will wear tiny and big hats. One of our insider favorites, just an awesome cat seeking an awesome home.

Sadie
Lovely and very friendly young female

Stella
Stella is a lovely young adult female.

Smoke
Attention-loving handsome man cat.

We have other cats and kittens in the pipeline not ready as of today. If you are seeking a cat or kitten, please let us know. Or check out Feline Friends, doing more good work with street cats.

Why adopt a cat from Hyde Park Cats?
Cats and kittens available for adoption from us are fostered in loving homes. The cat you adopt will be familiar with the sounds, smells and movements of life in a home and accustomed to living with humans. He or she has been interacting on a daily basis with people who know this particular cat intimately, and the foster mom or dad can tell you all about the cat’s individual personality, habits, preferences. You can’t judge a cat by its cover! And while we can't predict the future or know everything about a cat, we can help you choose the cat who is right for you.

The cat you adopt from Hyde Park Cats may have been born under a car. It may have been a pet who was left outside, alone, when its owner moved. It may have been the victim of a grievous injury. All of our cats come to us from the streets, the alleys, the sewers (really!) of Chicago. By adopting a Hyde Park Cat, you are making a direct contribution to getting cats off the streets of our city and into loving homes. You are contributing to making your neighborhood a better place, not just for cats but for people -- because when we live around animals who are abused and neglected, we learn to see that as acceptable.

Our Hyde Park Cats are just as pretty, just as soft, just as sweet, just as smart, and just as feline as any cat you will buy from a store or a breeder. By adopting a Hyde Park Cat, you'll get the best cat in the world--for you. And your cat will get the best home in the world--with you.

We know everyone loves kittens, but there are many compelling reasons to adopt an adult or a senior cat.

All prospective adopters must fill out our adoption application and pay an adoption fee. Email hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com for more information. We charge $85 for the adoption of one cat or $150 for a pair.

We believe kittens need the company of another feline companion and place kittens in pairs whenever possible. Bonded cats will keep each other emotionally and psychologically, and even physically, healthy for life. Read more here.

Adoptions Pending
Malbec

Rochester
Loud purrs and big smile!

Orange Cat

2011-04-11T12:56:00.000-07:00

Yes, he's orange and he's a cat. So what if he doesn't have the most original name? Orange Cat says YOU can give him a new name after he's taken over your home. He's an adult male (neutered) cat who has spent most of his life on the streets. OK, in an alley. His caretaker has also built him a wonderful cat hut kind of thing and even brought him inside, but now she is moving and needs to find Orange Cat a home of his own. Although he is FIV+, he is in good health, with gorgeous fur and bright eyes. Orange Cat will do best as an only cat. He gives tons of attention and wants tons of attention back!

Special discount for FIV+ cat applies. Please inquire at hydeparkcats@gmail.com to learn more about Orange Cat!

Training to the Post

2011-04-01T10:40:00.001-07:00

Training Your Cat/Kitten To Scratch Appropriately

Q: Why is my cat scratching my brand-new furniture!

A: They’re scent-marking the sofa. Your new sofa doesn't have a familiar smell of home, so your cat marks it with the scent glands in her paws by scratching. Try placing a nice smelly blanket on the new furniture to help kitty accept it.

Thanks to Feline Friends for this excellent guide!

Training a feline friend to scratch only what belongs to them is simple. You can prevent or eliminate damage to your belongings by communicating with your cat. It will be a very rewarding and satisfying experience that will make both of you feel great!

Table of Contents

Provide an irresistible scratching surface
Praising and scolding
Trim your cat's claws
Soft Paws and other options
Appendix/References

Provide An Irresistible Scratching Surface

Okay, you do not want Cleo to damage your furniture, but scratching is natural and instinctive for cats as it helps them shed layers of claw sheaths, stretch and flex their muscles. Since your can cannot stifle their own desire to scratch, provide an ideal object of desire--a good scratching post.

The surface of the scratching post should be covered with a rough, tough material--sisal, hemp or something similarly nubby. Carpet does not satisfy most cats, and can confuse them because they will not be allowed to scratch the carpet on the floor of your home.
The scratching post should be sturdy, not shaky, and tall enough so your cat can raise its paws above its head and stretch its body while digging its claws into the surface. It should also have a strong base that will not tip when they scratch.

It is wise to give your cat or kitten an extra scratching surface, such as a corrugated cardboard floor mat or two. It is also a good idea to place a scratching post on each floor of your house or in more than one spot if your house has several rooms.

Introduce your cat to the post, it helps to sprinkle a little catnip onto its surface. (Some posts, such as a Felix brand post, come with catnip imbedded in it.) This will interest your cat to the post. Call your cat or kitten to the post in a pleasant and encouraging tone. Stand over the post and pat it calling your cat by name. Try rubbing or scratching the post with your nails. Stroke your cat's back and follow through to the tail, applying slight pressure. This motion causes many cats to raise their front paws to the post. Many cats do not like if you forcibly put their paws on the post, but some cats will tolerate it. Be audibly pleased even if your cat only comes up and inspects the post. You want the cat to take full possession of the post, so never remove it or obstruct access to it. Another trick to interest your cat in the post is dangling a toy such as a 'Cat Dancer' over it. When they lunge at the toy, their paws will land on the textured surface and they will just naturally dig in. Then they will discover that the post has great scratching potential.

A good place for the post is where the cat sleeps or eats. Many cats enjoy a good scratch upon waking and before mealtime. Should your cat show interest in any other surface, the fabric on a sofa or a stereo speaker, place the post in front of the off-limits item to divert your cat's attention. You can later gradually move the post to a more desired location.

Praise--soothingly delivered--speeds the learning process. You may think your cat often ignores you, but they are just pretending! They know when you are happy with them and as time goes by, continue to praise them when they scratch; even after she is sufficiently trained. This further cements her good feelings about her post and reminds her that you are pleased. Even middle-
aged and older cats enjoy this type of praise.

It is important to remember that you should never play with your cat or kitten with just your bare hands. Always have a toy in your hand when you play. If your kitten pounces on you or grabs you with their claws, remove them, scold them sternly, and distract them with a toy or their post. A cat who thinks that your 'paws' are great interactive toys is one who will pounce, bite or scratch you at the most inopportune moments. It is a habit that should not be started.

Praising & Scolding

Consistent scolding is crucial to the learning process. It can help break an established habit of raising paws to the wrong objects. Every piece of furniture and carpet should be off limits, all the time. No piece of human furniture, even if designated for the cat should be all right to scratch. The distinction between the two is not clear to your cat.

Scold in a low, serious voice. Say, "Nooooo, Cleo!" and remove her if she lingers. then take her gently to her post and pat on it, encouraging her. Do not force her to scratch, but rather suggest. Praise enthusiastically if she does.

The point is to make her special scratching furniture attractive and your couch unattractive, both emotionally and physically. To physically make your furniture unattractive, many things can be done. A thick throw over the couch works, as it moves with your cat's claws and does not allow your cat to dig in. Certain non-toxic air fresheners, like citrus, mint or lavender, also works for carpeted areas and the like. Double-sided tape, a foil covering or the bottom prickly side of a plastic carpet runner are all surfaces that can protect different items. Most are temporary measures that assist your training, but are removed later. Also a product called Sticky Paws is made for this purpose, and a complete listing is at the end of the article.

Another good deterrent is a can of coins, beans or some other noisemaker because cats hate jarring noises. If they forget and raise their paws to the couch, an unexpected shake of the can works wonders. If your cat is stubborn, a light spray from a child's water gun or spray bottle also makes a great deterrent. Remember, do not spray at your cat, but rather right next to them. Do this when she lifts her paws to the wrong surface and if verbal correction does not work. Most cats will jump and scat out of there. Remember no to do it out of anger or irritation. They may feel insulted and therefore become more stubborn.

Counteract the scolding by giving them even more encouragement when they show interest in their post. It is important to always do this, because scolding without encouragement frustrates your cat and makes them believe that they are not allowed to scratch anything at all, and this is not the case.

Always remember not to raise your voice too much.
This can upset you and your cat and do more harm than good.

Trim Your Cat's Claws

The last important component of the training process is clipping your cat's claws. This should be done from the beginning, and even adult cats that are new to the household can be trained. Again, the process should be done gently and calmly, with as little frustration on your part as possible.

Approach your cat only when you are feeling calm. Put an around around their body and let her face away from you. Try not to press on or restrict her too much, but rather gently encompass her with your arms so that she cannot back or just away. Grasp the front paws farthest from you and put pressure in the middle of it. The claw will become unsheathed and stick out. This does not hurt, but it annoys some cats so go slow. The cat claw is shaped like a scythe, and the part that curs over is what you clips. Using cat clippers (available at any pet store), clip only the part of the claw, and stay away from the inner pick cuticle. There are four toes and one dewclaw on each front paw and four toes on each back paw. Switch side of your cat that is nearest you to do the opposite paw. To clip your cat's back claws, lean over your cat with your arms around her usually works best. Experience and learn which way is most comfortable for your cat.

Again, praise while you clip. If your cat becomes agitated, keep praising and go slowly. If your cat is instantly agitated, it may work best if you do one or two claws each day. If your cat does not want her paws touched at all, touch them a little bit each day, then more and more to get her use to that first. Do not allow your frustration to affect your manner with your cat. The point is to make it an experience that is not unpleasant. The more you handle her paws the more accustomed she will become to the procedure.

Trimming your cat's claws makes them blunt and takes away the tips, which do all the damage. Regularly clipped claws are hardly noticeable when you handle your cat and will not snag your clothing or other surfaces. Closely-clipped claws will not harm a leather couch, even when your cat jumps off of it.

Another viable option for claw-clipping is to have your veterinarian's office do it. For a nominal fee and a brief appointment, the quick visit can become a simple routine for both you and your cat. Whether you do it or have your vet's office do it, claw-clipping should be done around every three to six weeks depending on your preferences.

Soft Paws & Other Options

There are products that exist to help protect your furniture. Training is the best method because it does not require regular purchases of various materials, but some products work well for certain people and cats. As mentioned before, 'Sticky Paws' strips work by making the furniture sticky and therefore unattractive to your cat, yet does not harm the furniture. 'Soft Paws' claw caps are applied to the cat's claws and cover them so that your cat can still use their claws but not do any damage. However, it should be noted that Soft Paws are not a quick fix if your problem is clipping your cat's claws. Soft Paws do require application and your cat to sit still for a certain amount of time. Your vet may be willing to help with this process.

It seems that this training process is complicated. It is actually quite easy to learn and the rewards are many. When your cat greets you in the evening by sauntering over to her post and scratching like crazy, you will be thrilled at your success and know that your furniture and other possessions has remained intact.

Appendix/References

Scratching Posts:

Parkers Pets on 55th St. has excellent scratching trees made from repurposed wood. Personal testimonial!

Felix Post - Order from the manufacturer. Felix, Inc. 3623 Fremont, Seattle, WA 98108. Telephone: 206.547.0042
Angelical Cat Company - Manufacturer of exquisite cat furniture and posts. For more information, visit www.angelicalcat.com or call 954.748.0698.
Products:

Soft Paws Nail Caps - Soft Paws lasts 4-6 weeks. They are safe and non-toxic. To order, call 800.433.7297 or visit their website at www.softpaws.org.
Sticky Paws - Sticky Paws are transparent, acrylic based and non-toxic, and will not harm your cat or your furniture. To order or for more information, call 888.697.2873 or visit their website at www.stickypaws.com.
Reading Materials:

The Cat Who Cried For Help; Attitudes, Emotions, and the Psychology of Cats, by Dr. Nicholas Dodman
The New Natural Cat: A Complete Guide for Finicky Owners, by Anitra Frazier
Resources:

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary - Their website has a members forum on which people can post questions and receive advice from other animal members and staffed veterinarian at no cost. Visit www.bestfriends.com and click on "Members and Pets Forum."

litterbox woes

2010-12-07T08:46:00.001-08:00

oy gevalt my cat is not using the litterbox correctly!

Hyde Park Cats members are slowly chipping in their two cents here or there.

JAMES:

My two cents is that the cat I adopted from a friend (rescued) a couple of years ago because he was was always pooping in the bathroom sink has never had a problem (knock on wood) at my house. A few key things changed:

a change of scenery

multiple litter boxes

no covered litter boxes

unlike his old home, however much the other cat in the house despised him at first (and she did), she always let him go in peace.

Some notes on grain intolerance wouldn't go amiss either. Cat 1 had almost intractable stool formation issues that resolved rather quickly once I switched her from a popular 'scientific' cat food to low and no grain canned food.

KIM:

My two cents are a little gross, so please make sure that you're either not eating or have a strong stomach before you read below!

One of my kitties is a Manx, who are apparently known for occasional incontinence issues because of their abnormal bone structure. So sometimes, after she uses the litter box she'll still have some poop stuck to her butt and be completely unaware of it. In addition to using baby wipes to clean her up, I trim the hair in that general area (she has long hair) to minimize how much the poop sticks. I also try to avoid giving her wet food. I have not followed my sister's suggestion to buy underwear and/or diapers for her. :-)

Cat sitting

2010-11-23T10:27:00.002-08:00

Hyde Park Cats does not offer cat-sitting or long-term fostering (of your pet).

We can recommend some pet sitters:

Aimee
aimeell@hotmail.com
708-288-5620

Ann-Marie
217.419.0850
anamsong@gmail.com

Brigit
brigitkotzky@gmail.com

Meng
Adorable Kitty

Robin
Cats in the City

Dogs, etc.:

Tara Robertson, PupStars

(why we don't offer catsitting ourselves).

Emergency Vet Care in Chicago

2010-11-05T09:30:00.000-07:00

Chicago Animal ER in the West Loop. 24/7.

Animal Emergency Treatment Center
at roughly Cicero and Belmont.

Chicago Veterinary Emergency & Speciality Center
at roughly Clybourn/Western/Belmont

Animal 911

3735 Dempster in Skokie

donations

2010-10-05T12:00:00.000-07:00

Hyde Park Cats is run entirely on donations. We accept cash or checks (we have a donation jar at Parker's Natural Dog and Cat Market) in Hyde Park, or you can use the Paypal button on our home page. We are not a 501c3 organization so those donations are not tax-deductible. We also accept donations of items such as cat food (open bags OK!), cat carriers, humane traps, old towels, etc.

Tax-deductible donations can be made directly to Tree House Humane Society for the exclusive use of Hyde Park Cats. To make a tax-deductible contribution, please send a check to:

Tree House Humane Society Bucktown Branch
ATTN: Doug Stoltzfus
1629 North Ashland Avenue
Chicago, IL 60632

Checks should be made out to Tree House Humane Society with Hyde Park Cats designated in the memo line. These donations will be used toward spay, neuter and vaccination veterinary services for Hyde Park Cats ferals and friendlies. Please note that to be credited to the Hyde Park Cats account, donations must be sent to Doug at the Bucktown Branch of Tree House.

Donations that come directly to Hyde Park Cats are also used for veterinary services, mostly at our local vet office. We buy our own FVRCP vaccine and booster the cats ourselves to save money! We also use donations to buy food for our outdoor cats, and sometimes supplies for our fosterhomes. Other uses include buying supplies for our once-a-month meatball-making day. Meatballs are for the dogs at the Animal Welfare League, and making them together is a great hands-on activity for our volunteers. We use donation money for a very limited amount of overhead such as stamps (to mail out adoption packets or other business correspondence). Nobody at Hyde Park Cats is paid for their work or time.

two kittens: why to adopt in pairs

2010-09-08T10:22:00.000-07:00

One of our adopters recently wrote to us:

"Last year I decided that I wanted to adopt a kitten so of course I turned to Hyde Park Cats. They convinced me to take not just the one kitten but also one of her littermates. It was the best decision I ever made. Flurry and Cupcake eat, sleep, and play together. They sit together in the window watching the world go by, groom each other constantly, and stampede through the house chasing each other. They keep each other company, comfort each other, and amuse each other. If one of them suddenly notices that the other is not in sight, he walks through the house crying until she runs out to join him.

They are inseparable; I'm so glad I didn't separate them."

Most cats, regardless of age, are highly social and are happier living with other cat companions (or sometimes with a dog or rabbit). This makes them better pets, which results in happier owners.

Kittens are no exception.

Kittens want and need interaction with other kittens for healthy social development. A kitten learns from its mother and littermates. Separating a kitten from its mother is often necessary for adoption. But taking a kitten away from its littermates can delay his development emotionally, socially and physically. Kittens who remain with a littermate or a similarly-aged companion are healthier, happier and better socialized.

Kittens are curious and crave constant stimulation. A single kitten may become bored and entertain itself by chewing on plants, climbing drapes and furniture, unrolling toilet paper, or exploring electrical cords and sockets. It is less likely that kittens who live with other kittens will engage in these dangerous and destructive behaviors.

Kittens are active at night. A single kitten may awaken you with jumping, pouncing and other hunting behavior. However, two kittens will occupy each other by finding interesting shadows to chase and games to play until they finally tire and fall asleep, too.

It's normal and appropriate for kittens to "play bite" and wrestle with each other. Without a litter mate or other kitten to play with, a kitten will bite and wrestle with you, which is unacceptable. Even if you allow this behavior from your kitten when it's small, once the kitten matures, your adult cat will have learned these bad habits. If your kitten grows up with another kitten, this negative behavior is minimized.

Even if you are fortunate enough to be home during the day, the attention a single kitten demands may occupy all your waking hours. A pair of kittens will also want to interact with you, but they can occupy each other while you are carrying on daily activities.

Think twice about bringing a kitten home to a senior feline resident. A kitten may have too much energy for an older cat. Kittens want to play and run constantly and require a lot of interaction. This may overwhelm and irritate an older cat, and the kitten may be frustrated her elderly companion doesn't have her energy level. This makes two very unhappy cats, and behavior problems, such as litter box avoidance or destructive scratching. Long-term, the two may never have a close relationship because their initial experience with one another was negative. An older cat is better matched with someone of her own age and temperament.

Adopting a single kitten or young cat is not a good idea. Trying to keep a single kitten occupied, stimulated, safe and happy while also going about the business of everyday life is much more of a challenge than it may seem upon first consideration.

Our goal is to ensure we are adopting our cats and kittens into a loving home for life.

fostering

2010-08-04T08:05:00.001-07:00

Hyde Park Cats is always in search of fosterhomes! Foster parents care for one or more cats, depending on circumstances, for anywhere from a few days to several months.

Why foster?

> you love cats but know you're only going to be here in Hyde Park for a year (two years, etc.)
> you love cats but can't support a cat financially right now
> you think you love cats, but you're never had one before
> your apartment has inadequate heating and you need a lap-warmer
> your yarn collection is too neat and you need a cat to play with it
> you live alone and need a cat to greet you when you come home
> you live with others and need a cat to complete your group
> you want to help solve the cat-overpopulation crisis in a small but concrete way

We ask you to provide food and litter, although this is negotiable if it's what is standing in your way of fostering. Veterinary care is on us. YOU provide LOVE, CARING, and SUPPORT for a homeless cat.

Email us at hydeparkcats@gmail.com to apply.

Foster cats are from the streets and pounds. We regret that we cannot foster your pet cat.

Free to good home?

2010-08-04T08:01:00.000-07:00

We got this kitten from a well-intentioned Hyde Parker who had put an ad on markplace for a kitten "free to a good home." The owner, who genuinely cared for the kitty, got her on Saturday from a relative's girlfriend (whose cat had kittens) but thought she might be developing allergies, so kitten had been spending her nights in a carrier on the porch. We're happy we could intercede with this kitten, because "free kittens" often have a very rough ... and short ... life.

It costs more to take a "free" kitten to the vet for deworming, spaying, and vaccination than it would to pay the fee to adopt a rescue cat. So a free kitten might end up with an owner who can't afford or doesn't care to provide veterinary care. Then when the cat gets sick or pregnant -- out it goes. People who get free kittens from strangers often do so because somebody trying to get rid of kittens will not do reference checks. Some of these people then take kittens into apartments or student housing where they are not allowed pets. When they're caught and face the choice between eviction or getting rid of the cat, out the cat goes. Or free kittens end up at animal control, and the owner just doesn't bother, and instead gets a new free kitten. Sometimes free kittens and cats (and other pets) end up as dogfighting bait, reptile food, or possibly even lab animals.

Don't fool yourself into thinking these scenarios are statistically insignificant. Where do you think all the stray cats come from?

What To Do If You See A "Free To Good Home" Ad

What can you do about free kittens? If you come across people trying to give away kittens for free, refer them to your local humane society. Offer them info. If necessary, help to spay the mother cat so that this doesn't happen again! If this is somebody on the street (or a "lemonade stand"), just take all the kittens and bring them to your local humane society. You will be doing everybody a favor.

If you see an ad, contact the person. Let them know about the dangers of "Free To Good Home" ads and tell them to proceed very carefully with the adoption, to do reference and landlord checks, etc. You can come prepared with a sample application! Do not feel embarrassed to contact the person who posted the ad. Many people are grateful that you took the time to inform them of dangers they were unaware of. Urge them to consider taking the kittens to the local rescue. If nothing else, take them yourself and bring them to the local rescue or humane society.

If the ad you found was on the internet, contact the site owner to request that they forbid the posting of ads for free animals on their site. Also contact your local newspaper and ask them to run a warning about placing "Free To Good Home" ads. Here is a sample letter.

introducing a new cat

2010-07-27T08:28:00.001-07:00

Thinking about bringing home a companion for your resident cat or cats? We recommend reading this website. We also recommend the books and website of Pam Johnson.

Here is a quick guide to introducing a new cat.

Of course, we're also here to help you with your questions about adopting and integrating our cats.

Who should consider an older or adult rescue cat?

2010-07-04T16:56:00.000-07:00

Who should consider an older or adult rescue cat?

Someone who thinks cat ownership is for him/her but isn't sure. An older cat provides a calmer, more sedate introduction to cats and for a shorter time. You're not looking at a 18-year commitment when you adopt an older cat.

A person who doesn't want to deal with the energy level of a young and active cat.

Someone who prefers the known over the unknown. An adult cat will have established personality traits, whereas the majority of kittens have similar personalities and predicting their future personality based on kitten behavior is difficult.

Someone looking for companionship for another older cat! Often an adult cat would like the companionship of another adult cat, but wouldn't appreciate the antics of a kitten.

A person who wants to really contribute to rescuing animals in need. Young kittens are easy to find homes for, but, there is a lot of satisfaction in providing a final home for a cat who's been displaced after the cuteness of kittenhood.

And finally, anyone who has ever owned an older cat before. That person knows that though kittens are cute and young adults are fun, the companionship and gratitude provided by older cats is truly the best.

The Feral Crisis

2010-06-01T13:24:00.000-07:00

READERS. This paper was written by my nephew for a middle-school project. Please leave your constructive criticism in the comments. He is particularly interested in thoughts on action items! Thank you for helping the next generation of TNR activists.

The Feral Crisis

Seventy to seventy three percent of cats and kittens that enter shelters are killed there. More surprising than that is why some are marked for death. Cats are killed not just for being sick, but for being feral or to put it more simply – wild. There is a huge disparity between public opinion and course of action. Alley Cat Allies took a survey that shows that 81% of Americans believe that it is more humane to leave stray cats outdoors to live out their lives in contrast to 14% who believe that stray cats should be killed in shelters. It is the policy of government funded animal shelters and animal control agencies to kill stray/feral cats rather than return them to their habitat. Taxpayer dollars, and state and local laws, support trap and kill as the solution. Not only is killing feral cats in animal shelters against public opinion, it is also not an effective way to deal with feral cat overpopulation. Trap, Neuter, and Return, or TNR, is a better solution that is humane, less expensive than trap and kill, and will better control the population.

Cats are an 8,000 to 10,000 year old species that have always lived outside and done very well. The animal control agencies want to redefine the cat species as indoor only but history shows us that cats are meant to be outside also. County Animal Control Facilities are funded by the county government. It is the role of these Facilities to catch and euthanize feral cats to stay inline with local leash laws. Feral cats are considered domestic animals and therefore always considered to be off leash and in violation of the law. If Animal Control supported TNR they would be in opposition of the laws they are supposed to enforce.

Today the cat population across the world is estimated to be around 600 million so we need to establish a humane and effective policy to help cope with this number. The only working method to get a handle on feral cat overpopulation is TNR. Cats are trapped in humane traps, surgically sterilized by veterinarians, and then the cats are returned to their colonies to live out a healthier life. In fact, some call TNR TTVAR which stands for trap-test-vaccinate-alter-return. So you see, not only are the cats neutered, they are also tested for contagious diseases and vaccinated to prevent them. So, feral colonies that have been through TNR are generally healthy and thriving. I have grown up around and grown to love cats both domestic and feral. I believe that the problems created by feral cat overpopulation are real and serious and know that TNR is the humane solution.

There are many reasons that TNR is a better option than killing. TNR is the only effective method of lowering the feral cat population. TNR fosters good relationships between humans and cats while decreasing the size of the colonies. Following TNR, cats become healthier and gain more weight. Cats in colonies are less likely to hunt birds as their human caretakers provide food. Aggressive cat numbers decrease after TNR. Diseases such as feline AIDS, feline leukemia, and even rabies are better controlled with TNR programs as animals are tested and vaccinated. Unfortunately not even TNR can save all of the feral cats. Those cats that test positive for some of the highly contagious diseases must be humanely euthanized for the sake of the colony but these same cats would have died a horrible death otherwise. These are only some of the benefits of TNR.

There are lots of components necessary to maintain a successful TNR program. The Maryland SPCA has established a program called Feral-Fix with the purpose of helping the stray/feral cat population through TNR. The SPCA has outlined specific expectations of the feral cat colony and its caretaker. Caretakers must provide a safe place with feeding stations and shelter. Specific dates must be arranged with trappers and veterinarians for TNR so that cats are not left in cages for longer than absolutely necessary and trappers must learn safe and humane trapping methods. Cats must also be carefully monitored following their release back into the colony. Caretakers are responsible for tracking colony numbers and submitting reports back to the Maryland SPCA. In return the SPCA offers low cost spay/neuter services and low cost vaccinations. The caretaker is still responsible for raising all the money needed to pay for the low cost Feral-Fix cat services, as well as all money needed for the food, shelter, etc. Caretakers that do not have a program like Feral-Fix must contact local veterinarians and unfortunately most times end up paying full price for veterinary visits.

As for financial impact, an extensive study was very recently done titled “The Fiscal Impact of Ferals,” by Sandy Miller of Best Friends Society, March 19, 2010. “The study estimates that trap and kill programs cost the state $250 per cat (for trapping, enforcement, sheltering, food, supplies, laboratory testing, and euthanizing)…while discounted TNR programs cost the state just $100 per cat (for trapping and a packaged TNR procedure.)”

The current leash law makes it impossible for the animal control facilities to see TNR as an option even though TNR is more humane and less expensive than catch and kill. In looking to make a difference my next steps would include lobbying for a spay/neuter assistance program funded by the government to assist TNR programs, (suggesting that a small portion of proceeds from county animal licensing be put towards TNR programs), working towards changing the current leash laws to not include WILD cats, and looking to begin a TNR program in my community.

Foster Guidelines

2010-05-07T10:48:00.000-07:00

Fostering for Hyde Park Cats

We are always seeking foster homes. The more foster homes we have, the more cats we can save; it's as simple as that. Fostering can be long- or short-term. To apply, please email hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com.

Questions

Who feeds the cat and pays for vet bills?

We try and distribute food and litter when we get donations, but we expect our fosterers to be able to purchase food and litter on an ongoing basis. We are responsible for all veterinary care.

Will I get to choose which cat I get?

Although we will ask for your preference or ability (for example, can you foster more than one cat, nursing mother, etc.) you don't get to choose specific cats. Our organization is so small that it is on an at-need basis. We will hear about a cat in need, or another foster family will go on vacation and we’ll email to ask if you can take the cat in. If for any reason a particular cat is not working out we would do what we could to transfer him as quickly as possible. It is the nature of cat rescue that not all of the cats will be cuddly kittens, some will be "right off the street" and it takes a bit of time and TLC to get them cute and cuddly. Remember, your job isn't to have a pet cat; it's to make that cat a good pet for someone else.

What happens when a potential adopter visits?

Adoption visits will be scheduled in consultation with you. We will never give out your information. Another Hyde Park Cats volunteer will attend the meeting; your job at the meeting is to give information about your fostercat's personality. FYI, we don’t do same day adoptions: the adopter will be asked to get organized and come back to pick up the cat after his/her house is ready.

What do I need to do as a foster parent?

Provide love and attention, food, water and litter. You should also buy a scratching post (cheap ones readily available and we often have them to give you). Groom your cat, pet your cat, talk to your cat. Your job is to make the cat as adoptable as possible. Some cats will arrive to you "ready to go." Some may help with their presentation (going from scruffy to shiny). Others will be shy or scared. You should spend as much time as possible socializing and training the cat. Please see below for socialization guidelines.

We also ask our fosterers to send us regular updates regarding the cat's personality, with pictures. We use this info and the pictures to create blog posts, Petfinder profiles, etc. Without this information, we cannot "shop" the cat to appropriate adopters, so this is a very important part of the work.

But I don't know a lot about cats ...

It's OK. We are here for you and our network of volunteers is available 24/7 by email (a little less available on phone). Even if you've never had a cat before, we are interested in hearing from you!

But I have a studio ...

That's OK and in some ways preferable (the cat will be forced to spend time with you. We do not place cats in homes with resident cats except under special circumstances. If you have pets in your home, all resident pets must be neutered and vaccinated.

Feral- or shy-cat socialization guidelines

Urban League
Alley Cat

Our TNR list

2010-05-02T18:23:00.000-07:00

Cats we have TNRed

MJK Alley

Aida
Bobby
Chandra (MIA)
Dana
Emilie
Felix
Gino (MIA)
Harper
Jules
Kerry (MIA)
Luka
Mona
Nino
Onyx
Pixie

(removed from alley and found homes or at Treehouse: Mimi, Bessie, Izzie, Qwerty, James Bond, Twinkletoes, Czarina)
(removed and adopted: Fawn)

In and Around Black and White Cat World
Rambam
Rachamim
Ellis
Finzi (RIP) (aka Rachel)
Little Buddy
Nimr
Ingleside
Kennedy (aka Daisy Mae)
Golden (aka Karo)
(removed: Juniper and four kittens, Remus, Juniper's second-litter kittens TC and CeCe)

Bacharach, RIP

Snoopy Colony

Mamico
Naru
Marcie
Peppermint Patty
Linus

PARKVIEW KATZ Colony

(have list, need to transcribe!)

Porchcats (B & W Cat World neighbors)
Ethel, Fred, Carmen
(Lucy not caught): MIA, March 2010

Battlestar Galactica

Squashie
(three kittens removed)

Other HP areas
Patinkin
Willa (RIP)
Demetri black male off Cornell/55
Heartie

WOODLAWN

Liliana

Evan black and white male FIV+ (inside)
Roger orange male FIV+ (inside
Frida (TNadopted) tabby

Barbara

Rufette 4/2011 black and white female
Stormy 4/2011 gray male
Will Feral 4/2011 black female (pregnant)

Nursing Home

6 females (4 pregnant): Whimsey, Phoebe, Felicity, Lillet, Abby, Midnight 4/2011
1 male: Windsor 4/2011
Sunshine, M

82 and Dobson

Dobson (m) gray/white
Mixon (m) friendly brown tabby
Scratchy (m) tiger
Itchy (m) tiger

Kenwood and further north

TJ (north Kenwood, black and white male) 3/2011
Samantha (north Kenwood) 3/2011

Nadia's kittehs

Cora tortie 5/2011
Lil' Sis black and while small female 5/2011

adopted and adoptable cats are at this page

Declawing

2010-04-28T08:11:00.000-07:00

Hyde Park Cats is against the practice of declawing. We do not declaw our cats, and we don't want our adopters to do it either.

The main reason we are against declawing is because it means amputating the last joint of the toes of the cat. Their claws are fused to their toes and cannot be removed without cutting off the last joint of their toes. This is not only incredibly painful but also can lead to many behavior and health problems.

We are also against the practice of tendonectomy. An alternative surgical procedure, deep digital flexor tendonectomy, involves severing the tendon attached to the end toe digit but maintaining the claw in the sheath. The cat is no longer able to extend the claws. The technique limits the cat's ability to damage surfaces when scratching as long as the claws are kept trimmed. It is less painful (cats recover within 2 days) and it has minimal postoperative risks. However, ongoing claw trimming is a must or the cat can use its claws again to some degree and there is a risk of ingrowth into the paw pads. Some veterinarians have reported joint fusion and arthritis problems. The technique has not been favored by most veterinarians mainly because of the above negative factors and the potential of the client's dissatisfaction and ultimate desire for declawing.

An informative page on declawing: http://www.declawing.com/ written by the veterinarian who developed Soft Claws (the nail covering alternative).

Declawing is not like a manicure. It is serious surgery. Your cat's claw is not a toenail. It is actually closely adhered to the bone. So closely adhered that to remove the claw, the last bone of your the cat's claw has to be removed. Declawing is actually an amputation of the last joint of your cat's "toes". When you envision that, it becomes clear why declawing is not a humane act. It is a painful surgery, with a painful recovery period. And remember that during the time of recuperation from the surgery your cat would still have to use its feet to walk, jump, and scratch in its litter box regardless of the pain it is experiencing. Wheelchairs and bedpans are not an option for a cat.

Your cat's body is perfectly designed to give it the grace, agility and beauty that is unique to felines. Its claws are an important part of this design. Amputating the important part of their anatomy that contains the claws drastically alters the conformation of their feet. The cat is also deprived of its primary means of defense, leaving it prey to predators if it ever escapes to the outdoors.

You can also read this article.

There are MANY ways to minimize a cat's scratching on furniture, etc. These include behavior modification, clipping your cats nails, providing suitable surfaces for scratching, etc. Our volunteers are happy to talk to adopters about these issues.

Many shelters have cats who are already declawed. If you know in your heart you only want a cat who has no claws, please do not adopt a cat and have it declawed. Adopt a homeless declawed cat from a shelter or rescue.

FAQ's about declawing and scratching

1. Why do cats scratch?
Cats scratch because it is a way of marking their territory, exercising their front limbs and because it gives them pleasure.

2. Why do cats scratch the furniture?
Your furniture feels nice, and it is there. It is tall enough to give the cat a good stretch, and it has nice resistance. It is what is available in the cat's home. But if you provide the cat with its OWN furniture that also performs these functions, the cat will not need YOUR furniture.

3. What can I do to keep my furnishings intact?
You can train your cat to use a scratching post or scratching rug and trim the front claws (if you like).

Also, you can get Soft Paws. Soft Paws are lightweight vinyl nail caps that you glue on the cat's front claws. They're great for households with small children and are extremely useful for people who are away from home all day and can't exercise the watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. Soft Paws® are easy to apply and last about four to six weeks. You can find Soft Paws® on the web by clicking here or call 1-800-989-2542.

4. How do I get my cat to use a scratching post?
Remember that an important part of scratching is the cat's desire to mark a territory, so a scratching post should be in an area that's used by the family, not hidden in a back corner. After a time you can move the post away to the periphery of the room, but you'll need to do this gradually.

Some cats like to scratch horizontally and some like to scratch vertically. Observe your cat and buy accordingly. Corrugated-cardboard scratchers are widely available and cheap. Many cats like sisal rugs. Most cats love to have a piece of furniture that is theirs. This should include an area to scratch. Any pet store will have a variety of cat furnishings with scratching areas.

Initially, put the post where your cat goes to scratch. This may be by a sofa, a chair or wherever Kitty has chosen as her territiory, and you may need more than one post to cover her favorite spots. Security is a major factor in making the post appealing to your cat. If it topples or shakes, she won't use it. It should either be secured to the floor or have a base wide enough and heavy enough to keep it stable.

Encourage Kitty to use her post with clever enticements. Feed her and play with her by the post. Rub dried catnip leaves or powder into it. Make all the asssociations with the post pleasurable. Reward her with a favorite treat when she uses it. Have her chase a string or a toy around the post or attach toys to it, which will result in her digging her claws into it. Eventually she will learn to love it and regard it as her own. It's also a good idea to put a post where Kitty sleeps. Cats like to scratch when they awaken, especially in the morning and the middle of the night. If space permits, a scratching post in every room of the house is a cat's delight. The most important place is the area of the house in which you and Kitty spend the most time. I have many sisal posts in my house, yet often in the morning my cats line up to use the one in the living room.

If at first Kitty is reluctant to give up her old scratching areas, there are means you can use to discourage her. Covering the area with aluminum foil or double-sided tape is a great deterrent. These surfaces don't have a texture that feels good to scratch.

Remember too that Kitty has marked her favorite spots with her scent as well as her claws. You may need to remove her scent from the areas you want to distract her away from. You will find pet odor removers in pet stores and many supermarkets as well.

Cats have an aversion to citrus odors. Use lemon-scented sprays or a potpourri of lemon and orange peels to make her former scratching sites less agreeable to her.

If Kitty still persists in scratching the furniture, try squirting her with a water gun or a spray bottle set on stream. Another option is a loud whistle or other noise-maker. You must employ these deterrents while she is scratching for them to be effective. The point is to establish an aversion to the spot you don't want her to scratch.

5. How do I trim my cat's claws?
It does not have to be a major procedure to trim your cat's claws, but every cat is different. Some cats won't care at all. Other cats may need some persuasion. If you have never cut your cat's nails before, start by just holding her paw. See if she is bothered. Then make one nail come out. Still not bothered? Get your cat used to the feeling before actually cutting.

If you are adopting a cat for the first time, our volunteers can show you how to do this procedure. Most of us do it all the time.

Gently hold Kitty's paw in one hand and with your thumb on top of the paw and forefinger on the pad gently squeeze your thumb and finger together. This will push the claw clear of the fur so it can easily be seen. You will notice that the inside of the claw is pink near its base. This is living tissue that you do not want to cut. Trim only the clear tip of the nail. Do not clip the area where pink tissue is visible nor the slightly opaque region that outlines the pink tissue. This will avoid cutting into areas that would be painful or bleed. The desired effect is simply to blunt the claw tip.

found a mammal (wildlife)

2009-12-06T15:08:00.000-08:00

Found a mammal? See this page from the Flint Creek Wildlife Rehabilitation Center.

found a bird

2009-12-06T15:05:00.001-08:00

Found a bird? Be careful; larger birds can hurt you. Don't try to feed it or water it; birds have some pretty specific needs so just immediately call one of these bird places.

Flint Creek Wildlife Rehabilitation center has a bird hospital on Northerly Island. They even do bird pick-up; call 1-888-354-6827 to arrange. Here are their guidelines to what to do if you found a bird.

Chicago Bird Collision Monitors deal primarily with migratory birds that are injured, but they have a good network in place that can deal with domestic birds. Hotline: 773-988-1867.

Finding a new home for my cat

2009-11-18T13:43:00.001-08:00

Q: I have/know of a cat that needs a new home. Can you help me find it a new home?

HPC focuses its efforts on strays, TNR, and cats on the street. "Owner surrenders" are not within our mission.

Here is a very good guide from PAWS Chicago on Giving up your pet. It includes detailed action steps.

Before surrendering your animals to a facility you should exhaust your personal contacts. Don't hold back. While you are doing that, contact the no-kill shelters to get on the wait list.

Please understand that every shelter has lots of animals already. If you know you are planning on giving up your pet, think ahead. Your actions are the difference between life and death for your pet.

If the no-kill shelters are full, and you cannot place your animal yourself, you must surrender your pet to an open-door facility such as Animal Care and Control or Animal Welfare League.

PAWS Chicago has a Crisis Care Temporary Foster program: 773-475-9462. If you need food and supplies to tide you over until you find placement for the cats, or if that will help you keep your cats, please call PAWS' Pet Food Bank at 773-475-9426.

IT IS ILLEGAL AND INHUMANE TO ABANDON AN ANIMAL. Don't dump your animal on the street, park, etc.

If you are seeking a new home for an animal in an abusive environment, call the City at 311.

friendlies

2009-10-05T12:47:00.000-07:00

Q: I found a friendly cat outside. I think it is lost/hungry/stray/seeking a home. What should I do?

Hyde Park Cats would like to empower you to help the cat you have found. If you have found a stray cat, please follow the steps below.

First, ask yourself if you think this is not a stray cat, but your neighbor's cat who is out. Use your best judgment (is it filthy? struggling mightily to get your attention? skinny? no collar?). Keep your eye out for this cat. It might turn into a stray cat!

If you think it is a stray (lost) or homeless cat, we encourage you to help.

If you take the cat into your home, keep it separate from any resident pets. Place the cat in a small room with a litter box and food. A bathroom is a good option—something with a door and tile floors. Don't worry too much about a litter box. Cats will naturally use a box ... you can fill it with shredded newspaper if you can't get litter.

If you decide you want to keep the cat you should still attempt to find the owner, so:

Place an ad in the Hyde Park Herald and marketplace.uchicago.edu.

We'll advertise the cat in our lost-and-found section on Facebook and our lost-and-found coordinator will communicate with you to try and reunite the cat with a possible owner.

Take the cat to a vet to be scanned for a microchip. This is a free service.

Post fliers around the block where you found the cat.

Post fliers elsewhere (vet, pet market, grocery store).

If you don't want to keep the cat, but can foster it for a while, during which time we seek adopters, we will help!

HPCats will feature the cat on the blog and petfinder

We will provide vet services

You will work with our Adoptions Coordinator to set up appointments with potential adopters

If you can't keep the cat at all:

We may be able to place the kitty in a foster home. Availability is limited, but we try. It may take an hour or a week. We ask that you help us by taking the cat to the vet and having it scanned for a microchip and checked for general health, including information on age, gender, and possible spay/neuter status. Sometimes we are full up, but we always want to help stray Hyde Park Cats.

We strongly encourage you to help us find a foster home for the cat you have found. Our foster space is very limited. If you, the finder, can help out here, it dramatically increases our ability to help the kitty!

If you want to bypass Hyde Park Cats:

Stray cats may be admitted to Treehouse Humane Society, a no-kill shelter. Space is limited. This is a wonderful shelter that only works with stray and abused cats. You cannot relinquish your own cat to Treehouse, but it's a great place to try and place a stray you have found.

You can try other shelters such as PAWS Chicago or a shelter from this list

Finally, City of Chicago Animal Care and Control, 2741 S. Western Ave., is open from 7am until 11 p.m. seven days a week for drop-off. Animal Welfare League is also available for drop off at either location (check website). These are not no-kill shelters. They may very well euthanize any animal brought in. However, we encourage you to bring a cat to one of these shelters rather than dumping an animal on the street.

Please remember that Hyde Park Cats is a community organization made up of volunteers working on their own time. We are not paid for our work. We do not have a physical shelter but depend on foster homes and the goodwill and civic-mindedness of our community. We cannot always respond to immediate, urgent, or emergency needs.

Available for Adoption OLD DONT UPDATE

2009-09-29T08:19:00.001-07:00

Pending
Adopted!

Available for Adoption

PLEASE WRITE TO hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com FOR AN ADOPTION APPLICATION.

KITTENS

Anna Conda
gorjus "marble rye" kitteh with striking orange eyes.

Talullah
Snuggly and darling girl with mismatched eyes; handshy and requires patience but with a big payoff. Loves to snuggle and give kisses. Adorable and funny.

Cowtens: Hugh Heifer and Madame Bovary Matchy matchy sister-brother kitten pair, sweet, snuggly, great with each other and great companions.

Tuxie and Tortie (pair). Info to come.

Oni and Afikomen (two-female pair)
One tortie and one gray-and-white. Two sweet darlings. Can't go wrong with this pairing!

Else and Fritz

Two more Tinker kittens – Otter and Hazel

YOUNG and ADULT CATS

Augustus
Friendly and easy-going orange tiger guy.

Biloxi
Companionable young male.

Buckley

Domino
Sweet young mostly-white boycat who loves attention. Loud purrs.

Evan
Handsome, sweet, calm black and white male, FIV+ and loves the inside life.

Madison
Gorgeous and superloyal longhaired black female. Nice hugger.

Maria
Small and sleek tuxedo female, quiet and companionable. Take a chance on Maria! video!

Orange Cat
Independent minded but loving adult male cat. Guess what, he's orange. FIV+ and will prefer to be the only cat.

Polly
Calico-tortie hugger cat! Won't bother your plants. Extremely decorative.

Robin
A real lap cat with intriguing tiger markings. Huggy and snuggly bear to those he knows and trusts.

Roger
Young orange-tabby male with a unique "bulldog" look and amazing whiskers. Purr machine! FIV+ and can live a long healthy life (as an indoor cat, please). Will wear tiny hats.

Sitwell
Very loving handsome young tigerman.

Taylor
Seven-year-old long-haired front-declaw. Glamorous and gorgeous lady lapcat.

Tiberias
Playful and attentive young black and white male. Did I mention playful?

Cindy
Senior snowshoe seeking a retirement home.

Dharma is a shy young girl. All her kittens have been adopted and she's ready to go to her forever home too. She would be fine as an only cat or with other feline companions. See also Dharma. She needs a calm household and a person who is willing to give her a longer acclimation time.

We have other cats and kittens in the pipeline not ready as of today. If you are seeking a cat or kitten, please let us know. Or check out Feline Friends, doing more good work with street cats.

Why adopt a cat from Hyde Park Cats?
Cats and kittens available for adoption from us are fostered in loving homes. The cat you adopt will be familiar with the sounds, smells and movements of life in a home and accustomed to living with humans. He or she has been interacting on a daily basis with people who know this particular cat intimately, and the foster mom or dad can tell you all about the cat’s individual personality, habits, preferences. You can’t judge a cat by its cover! And while we can't predict the future or know everything about a cat, we can help you choose the cat who is right for you.

The cat you adopt from Hyde Park Cats may have been born under a car. It may have been a pet who was left outside, alone, when its owner moved. It may have been the victim of a grievous injury. All of our cats come to us from the streets, the alleys, the sewers (really!) of Chicago. By adopting a Hyde Park Cat, you are making a direct contribution to getting cats off the streets of our city and into loving homes. You are contributing to making your neighborhood a better place, not just for cats but for people -- because when we live around animals who are abused and neglected, we learn to see that as acceptable.

Our Hyde Park Cats are just as pretty, just as soft, just as sweet, just as smart, and just as feline as any cat you will buy from a store or a breeder. By adopting a Hyde Park Cat, you'll get the best cat in the world--for you. And your cat will get the best home in the world--with you.

We know everyone loves kittens, but there are many compelling reasons to adopt an adult or a senior cat.

All prospective adopters must fill out our adoption application and pay an adoption fee. Email hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com for more information. We charge $85 for the adoption of one cat or $150 for a pair.

We believe kittens need the company of another feline companion and place kittens in pairs whenever possible. Bonded cats will keep each other emotionally and psychologically, and even physically, healthy for life. Read more here.

Adoptions Pending

Capri
Sylvester

ADOPTED!

Nico
Zoe
Lara (foster failure)
Ilaria
Dan Ryan
(foster failure)
Coco Chanel (foster failure)
Eclipse
Justin (foster failure)
Meshi
Sahara
Brie and Cheddar
Templeton
Frida
Carmen
Capt. Jack Sparrow
Alba
Bewick
Oatmeal
Marlo
A HPCats "insider" favorite. Foster failure.
Bridget
Sampson
Kenya
Raindrop
Kalla
Hidey and Minion
Effi
Strawberry
Chinchilla
Tinsel
Ray Lee
Penny
Rigoli
Bullseye and Cucumber
Hiccup
Leo Lionni (foster failure)
Lola
Eemo and Gomo
Cleo and Darius
Benji
Ollie
Cinquo and Iggy
Ginger
Ramses and Tut (brother pair)
Charlie and sister Ruthie
Arancio (George) (foster failure)
Louis le Roi
Zucca
Rain
Kalla
Jada
Siegel
Cassie and Kio
Cato and Vania
Officer Fancy Pants
Clover
Raygn and Storm
Shofar and Shanah (pair)
Firefly
Rosetta (now Tractor)(foster failure)
Sepia
Harper
Apples and Honey
Sophie
Minou
Tashma
Achilles and Istria
Pattie and Tricia
Peanut
Pymand Luna.
Sfama (now Edwina)
Fawn
Mouse & Tigger
Roo and Tux
Juniper
Dudley (now Calvin)
Eko and Sawyer (Dharma kittens)
Hurley (Dharma kitten)
Amos
Lydia
Rainbow and Poe
Minette and Martha
Kobi
Rabbit and Piglet (Sophie kittens)
Rousseau (Dharma kitten)
Moses
Lemon (Lennon) (now Tucker)
Megiddo (Mr. Cat)
Acorn and Butternut
Apple
Caesar
Holly
Sweet Pea
Leif (now Bulk)
Chutney and Mango (Sweet Pea kittens)
Toto and Rex (Juniper kittens)
Fido and Roxy (Juniper kittens)
Pistou and Truffle (Sweet Pea kittens)
Owl
Theo (foster failure)
Ester
Yogurt and Pretzel
Houdini
Louise
Maggie
Trixie
Midgie
Mickey
Baby
Loki
Tiger Macabbee
Bella (foster failure)
Judah (now Baxter)
Nena/Carmella (broken leg kitty)
Remus (now Baba)
Viola and Sebastian (now Cohen and Leonard)
Akiba (foster failure)
Tapioca
Kiwi and Mango
Avocado and Coconut
Cat Cora
Karma
Kindle
Connie
Moe (now Jane)
Twinkletoes (now Graham)
Swift
Figi (now Fredo)
Pants
Mamacat
> Mamacat's five kittens: Igby, Big Boy, Little Tiger, Fuzzy/Bokeh, Pierrot/Hattie/Olive
Shadow
Daisy the tortie
Portia the porchcat
Libby (fosterfailure : ))
Sherlock
Mama n’ 4 King kittens: Yum Yum, Robbie, Scottie, Jessie
Jersey
Neko

ADOPTIONS we partnered on

Brownie
Pumpkin from Feline Friends
Foxy from Feline Friends
Foxy
Shorty
Willie and Lily

Went to PAWS to find their forever family

Bubbles
Sandie 4/30/10
Vedanta (Roofus) -- adopted!
Toby (3/20)
Little Women Cats:
> Jo--adopted!
> Theo--adopted!
> Beth--adopted!
DeeBee (Eudora)
Prima -- adopted!
Sparle -- adopted! In two days! See an update!
Rosie -- adopted!
Andy-- adopted! See an update!
Clooney
Hoppy
Ori (adopted by a Hyde Park family)
Rosie
Brushki
Hecuba
Celia
Pumpernickel
Valentine
Feste
Curio
The Pullman Four
Magee
Moggy
Terry
Ronnie
Norman of Orange
Molly Molasses

Went to Treehouse

Ashton
Qwerty
James Bond
Lulav/Sun Pacific
Lulav
Mimi
Czarzina
Lucia Clara

Went to another shelter or rescue

Patches
Sachari
Elijah (feral cat rescue)
Pushkin RIP 2010)
Kislev
style="font-style:italic;">RIP

Aki
Spalding
Nadia
Black kitty, perhaps hit by car (5.31.10)
Maxime et Maurice
Freckles
Willa
King
Oliver
Cornflakes
Admiral Adama
Sonnet
Butterscotch
Stanley
Finzi
Maxime et Maurice
Freckles (5.10; tiniest Dharma kitten) ... Ester's third (4.10)
Willa (5.10)
King (4.14.10)
Black kitty at 54th (4.10)
Oliver
Cornflakes
Admiral Adama
Balthasar
Bacharach
Finzi
Tiny construction kitten with black and white paws

Our TNR list
********

Cinquo and Iggy

Cinquo

Iggy
Ramses and Tut

Ramses and Tut

Charlie and Ruthie

Charlie and Ruthie
Raygn and Storm

Raygn and Storm
Rosetta (Tractor)

Rosetta
Eko and Sawyer (Dharma)

Eko and Sawyer
Hurley (Dharma)

Hurley
Rabbit and Piglet (Sophie)

Rabbit and Piglet
Rousseau (Dharma)

Rousseau
Leif (Bulk)

Leif
Chutney and Mango (Sweet Pea)

Chutney and Mango
Toto and Rex (Jumpier)

Fido and Roxy (Juniper)

Pistou and Truffle (Sweet Pea)

Pistou and Truffle
Trixie

Trixie
Midgie

Midgie
Baby

Baby
Tiger Maccabee

Tiger Maccabee
Judah (Baxter)

None
Nena/Carmella

Nena/Carmella
Remus (baba)

Remus
Viola and Sebastian (Cohen and Leonard)

Viola and Sebastian
Akiba

Akiba
Tapioca

Tapioca
Kiwi and Mango

Kiwi and Mango
Avocado and Coconut

Avocado and Coconut
Cat Cora

Cat Cora
Karma

Karma
Kindle
Connie

Connie
Moe (Jane)

Moe
Twinkletoes (Graham)

Twinkletoes
Swift

Swift
Figi (Fredo)

Figi
Pants

Pants
Mamacat and 5 kittens

Mamacat and 5 Kittens
Shadow
Daisy
Portia
Libby
Sherlock
Mama and 4 King Kittens
Jersey
Neko
Vedanta
Toby
Little Women Cats
DeeBee
Prima

FIV

2009-09-18T07:57:00.000-07:00

FIV is the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus.

Virologists classify feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) as a lentivirus (or "slow virus"). FIV acts slowly, over a course of years, to erode a cat's immune system. It cannot be passed to humans, or dogs or any other animal than cats, and cat-cat transmission is possible only through deep bite wounds, infected gums, etc. It cannot be transferred by licking, sharing a litter box, etc. FIV+ cats can live long and healthy lives.

Please read more about FIV in this page from Treehouse

More good info from Best Friends

FIV Quick Facts:

FIV is not communicable to humans, dogs or other species.

FIV+ cats are not sick. FIV is a virus that causes their immune systems to be compromised, but is not an illness itself.

FIV+ cats' life expectancies are not significantly shorter than other cats that do not have FIV. With good care, they can live as long as any other cat.

Adopting an FIV+ cat, does not mean that you will be spending more money on medical expenses than a non positive cat.

FIV is transmitted from one cat to another by contact with bodily fluids, such as fighting among males that have not been neutered. Intact tomcats fight to hurt each other and inflict deep puncture wounds -- this is where the virus is spread. Normal playing, or even the occasional skirmish, is highly unlikely to cause infection.

All cats require a high quality diet; FIV cats are no different. A high-quality diet will help your cat stay healthy.

Some people believe FIV+ cats should not be vaccinated, since a vaccine is a "hit" to the cat's (already less than 100%) immune system. Please consult your veterinarian.

As with any cat, FIV+ cats should be examined by a veterinarian annually, and get regular blood work and dentals as needed.

Help! I found a kitten!

2009-09-16T21:55:00.000-07:00

Help! I found a kitten!

Mazel tov, you found a kitten.

If the mother cat is with the kittens and seems to be in good health, super. She will do a lot of the work for you, and your task will be to make sure she's healthy by taking her to the veterinarian right away; next, that she's nursing all the kittens and attending to their cleaning.

But what if you found just some kittens? Take them in. If they are outside they will grow up to be feral cats and contribute to the feral-cat problem. HOWEVER -- it is possible to use those kittens to trap the mother cat. Please let us know as soon as possible and we can try to set up a trapping situation.

There are times when you find just a kitten and it seems like the right thing to do to bring it inside. Now you have to care for it! Your kitten should go as soon as possible to the vet for assessment and to get a dose of Revolution, which kills ear mites, internal parasites, and fleas.

You can tell their age very approximately by several methods. If they still have their umbilical cords they are probably between 1 and 3 days old. If their eyes are still closed they are probably between 1 and 10 days old. By 10 days their eyes should be open. Open their mouths and look for teeth. Do you see little nubs coming in? About 2 weeks. Are they attempting to stand? Possibly 2 to 3 weeks. Are they starting to play? Figure their age at about 4 weeks.

You'll want to arrange a "nest" for your kittens. This can be a carrier, a basket, or even a cardboard box lined with clean towels. If you have other cats in your home, the kittens MUST be isolated in a separate room, and you MUST wash your hands both before and after caring for them. It might be easiest to put them in a small room, such as a bathroom.

Basic Needs of Newborn Kittens

Warmth:
A chilled kitten can die quickly, and is considered a veterinary emergency. You can warm the kitten by holding it next to your own skin, or by using a heating pad, set to "Low", well-wrapped with a thick towel or flannel sheet. Make sure there is plenty of unheated surface in the box so the kittens can move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Feeding a chilled kitten can be fatal, so wait until its temperature is up to its normal range of 95° F to 99° F before attempting to feed it. If a kitten's temperature falls below 94° F it must be warmed gradually to avoid metabolic shock. At the same time, give it Pedialyte (the same stuff sold for human babies) to hydrate it and prevent shock.

Nourishment:
You'll need K.M.R. or equivalent, available from pet stores, and a feeder of some sort (either a bottle, syringe, or eye-dropper.) The K.M.R. box will include instructions for feeding by weight of the kitten. Tiny babies will need to eat as many as 12 meals around the clock, so plan on 2 a.m. feedings.

At three weeks or so, you can start training the babies to eat food in a dish. Do so by mixing either dry or canned kitten food with the milk forumula and moosh it until it is a thick liquid. Go ahead and use your blender, and pretend you're making a milkshake. You'll probably need to "prime" the kitty by putting a bit of the mixture on your finger tip, then showing her the saucer. As the kitten learns to eat and enjoy her "mush", you can gradually reduce the amount of milk replacement forumla.

Finally, she can graduate to solid kitten food. Ideally, you should start kittens out with a premium brand of canned kitten food. Canned food remaining in the can should be covered and refrigerated immediately after opening, and the next serving can be warmed in a microwave for just a minute or so. Uneaten canned food in the plate should also not be left out after the kitten has had her fill, as it can spoil rapidly. Since kittens' tummies are small, the best plan is to give four or five small meals a day. Some cat owners provide dry food to be eaten at will, supplemented with a small serving of canned food once or twice a day, however for optimum nutritional benefits, a canned diet is better.

At the same time your kitten is learning to eat from a dish, she can also learn to drink water from a dish. Use a sturdy ceramic bowl and place it where the kitten can find it easily. You may have to dabble your fingers in the water at first to show the kitten what it is. Don't be surprised if there is a little splashing and water fun before kitty discovers it is to be taken internally.

Nurturing

Nurturing consists of the various tasks the mother kitten would perform, and also includes bonding with the kitten.

Elimination - Newborns need help in moving their bowels and flushing their kidneys. The mother cat does this by washing their tushies (bums) with her tongue. You can accomplish the same by holding the kitty (put a towel over your lap first) and gently stroking its body with a rough towel or wash cloth. Do the same thing with its abdomen and tush. You should be rewarded with a bowel movement after every meal and soon will not need to give this assistance.

Kitty Massage - Same thing, only lightly stroke the kitty's whole body, starting with its head, around the cheeks and chin, shoulders, limbs, and finally back and belly. Massage is a good way to bond with your baby, and will prepare him for adapting more easily to a new home, if that is in his future.

Grooming - The mother cat combines grooming with massage by using the rough tongue given her by nature. You can use a soft brush to brush your kitten's hair - another tool for bonding. Also, if very young kittens have fleas, use a flea comb to gently comb them out. (Be sure to put a towel or newspaper under the kitten to catch the fleas and flea dirt.

The Litter Box

Kittens will normally take to the litterbox as quickly as ducks to water. Use a low-sided box, like the lid to a shoe box would work. A pellet-type litter is generally recommended, but not the clumping style. Kittens will experiment with eating litter and the clumping type is murder on the intestines. Once the kitten starts eating on its own, just put her in the box around 15 minutes after eating. Scratch the litter a bit with your finger to show her what it's all about. If she hops out, put her back in again a couple times, then leave her alone. If she makes a mistake and poops on the floor, pick a small amount up and put it in the box to show her where it belongs. She'll get the idea sooner or later, and more likely sooner.

Veterinary Care

Newborns should be examined by your veterinarian at the earliest possible time. Litters from ferals or of unknown parentage often suffer from fleas and other parasites, and do not have the normal natural immunity passed on in early weeks from vaccinated mother cats. While kittens nursing a protected queen get their first "shots" around six to eight weeks, orphaned/feral kittens may be immunized at two to three weeks. Of course, kittens showing signs of distress, such as prolonged chilling, watery eyes or running nose, lethargy or failure to eat, should be seen immediately by a veterinarian.

Lost a cat (in Hyde Park)?

2009-09-02T07:26:00.001-07:00

Q: I lost my cat. What should I do?

Email our Lost-and-Found Coordinator: lostandfoundhpc@gmail.com so we can put the word out on our listserve, blog, and Facebook page! A picture is very helpful, of course.

See this info from Lost and Pound

But here is a Hyde Park-specific list of what to do:

1. Make sure the cat is not in a closet, hallway, neighbor's apartment, etc. We have had many lost-cat reports where the cat was in the closet/foyer/neighbor's apartment.

2. Quickly check all around your block. Bring food with you.

3. Post fliers ASAP at 6-10 blocks. Include a picture and phone number ‘tags’. Do NOT put Hyde Park Cats contact info on your poster.

A good description is very concise, and includes the following: color(s), pattern type, long-hair/short-hair, approximate age, male/female, where lost and when, microchip/collar, favorite food.

NOTE: Fliers may be torn down within days of posting.

4. Hyde Park Herald: they post notices only once a week. Deadline: Monday at 2pm. If your cat disappears on Tuesday, a lost notice won’t appear until the following Wednesday (8 days later).

5. Post on craigslist, marketplace.uchicago.edu, the Chicago Reader (online and free)
.
6. Don’t give up after two weeks, or two months. It may take someone several months to win your cat’s trust. Keep checking the papers.

7. Visit shelters. Some have online photos of ‘adoptable cats’—check them out.

8. Keep checking found notices everywhere. Don’t post lost notices and just wait to hear.

9. Start locally, but remember—cats can jump into moving vans and ride cross country. Microchips are helpful here…but pets911.com is a national website for lost pets.

10. BEWARE OF SCAMS. Do not wire/send money to anyone. If you offer a reward, make sure you get your pet back first.

11. Don’t assume any vet or shelter will call you if they ‘find’ your cat. They see too many cats. You must go to them to check.

low-cost spay/neuter options?

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Q. Can I get help having my cat spayed/neutered? It's expensive.

A. Several places in the city offer low-cost spay/neuter. We have looked for information for people with reduced incomes. Remember, spay or neuter now, no hassle with kittens later. Spayed/neutered pets live longer, happier, healthier lives.

Hyde Park Cats cannot pay for spay/neuter surgery (or other medical care) for your pet cats. However, we may be able to help you with a ride or with information. Email us at hydeparkcats@gmail.com.

Here are three good options:

Anti-Cruelty Society
157 Grand Ave., (312) 644-8338 ext.347 (office hours M-F 10a-4p).

Cat spay/neuter $10, no proof of low income required, but distemper vaccination is required; if proof of vaccination is not available, distemper vaccination must be purchased for an additional $15. Rabies vaccination is also available for an additional $18. Forms of payment accepted: cash (no bill larger than $50) and all major credit cards. Appointments must be scheduled in advance. Clinic is open Monday through Friday. Drop-off time 8a-9p, pick-up time 5:30p-6p. Additional fees (if applicable): $15 to reschedule a cat appointment; $50 cash per animal left overnight. Minimum age/weight for spaying/neutering kittens: 3 mo/2 lbs minimum. Anticruelty Society will also spay/neuter any feral cats free of charge.

Anticruelty Society will not perform surgeries without informed consent from the owner. If you are helping somebody with transport please keep this in mind.

PAWS Chicago
3516 W. 26th St., (773) 521-7729 (office hours: Su-Th 9a-5p).

Cat spay/neuter free for Medicaid recipients living in Chicago, $25 for the general public. Proof of Medicaid status and Chicago residency required for free surgery. No prior vaccinations are required, but vaccinations may be purchased at $25 per shot for the general public or $12 per shot for Medicaid recipients or residents of zip codes 60617, 60619, 60620, 60621, 60628, 60629, 60636, and 60639. Forms of payment accepted: cash, personal checks with ID, MasterCard, and Visa. Appointments must be scheduled in advance. Clinic is open Sundays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and selected Saturdays. Drop-off time: 6:45a-7:45a; pick-up time: 4p-5p same day. Additional fee (if applicable): $30 for animal left overnight. Minimum age/weight for spaying/neutering kittens: 8 weeks/2 pounds.

Tree House

1629 N. Ashland Ave., (773) 227-5535 office hours: usually 7a-6p Tu-Sa except holidays); spay@treehouseanimals.org.

[This is its new spay/neuter clinic at its Bucktown location. Tree House is no longer performing spay/neuter at its Rogers Park location except for Tree House resident cats.] Cat spay/neuter $40, or $25 if one can prove reduced income status: Medicaid card, WIC, Major VA, Disability, Section 8, Social Security Disability, etc. Vaccinations are not required, but it is recommended that clients' cats be vaccinated at least two weeks before surgery, because there may be unprotected feral cats in the clinic at the same time. Vaccinations may be purchased along with surgery at the following rates: one-year rabies shot, $12 for reduced income, $15 for general public; three-year rabies shot, $25/$30; FVRCP, $7/10. Forms of payment accepted: cash, checks, and credit cards. Appointments must be scheduled in advance. Clinic is open for cat surgeries Wednesdays through Saturdays. Drop-off time: 7:30a-9a; pick-up time: 4:30p-6p same day. Additional fee (if applicable): $25 for animal left overnight. Minimum age/weight for spaying/neutering kittens: 2 months/2 pounds.

The Animal Care League

1013 Garfield in Oak Park, (708)848-8155.

The Animal Care League offers spay/neuter services for $30. Call for more information.

The South Suburban Humane Society

18349 S. Halsted in Glenwood, (708)755-1110

The South Suburban Humane Society offers $55 neutering and $65 spaying services for dogs and $40 neutering and $50 spaying for cats. There are further reduced prices for certain zip codes.

Where can I buy a humane trap?

2009-05-16T07:12:00.001-07:00

There are different humane traps on the market.

Ours are Tru-Catch, and we like to order from Heart of the Earth. It is a woman-owned, family run business.

http://www.animal-traps.com/

We like the 30" Light Duty Deluxe - two door 30"x 9"x 11", 8 lbs. Cat, Skunk, Rabbit, Small Animal Trap.

The present cost for this trap is $58.00, Shipping is $18-23.

They can be shipped directly to us, write to hydeparkcats@gmail.com for an address.

In the News

2009-03-23T09:22:00.000-07:00

Q: Where Can I Read More about HPC?

Read more about Hyde Park Cats by clicking the links to newspaper articles about our group:

1. From the Chicago Tribune:
http://archives.chicagotribune.com/2008/apr/27/news/chi-schmich-bdapr27

2. From the University of Chicago's Chicago Maroon:
http://www.chicagomaroon.com/2008/5/8/hyde-parks-feral-cats-gain-local-and-citywide-sympathy

3. From the Chicago Weekly:

http://chicagoweekly.net/2009/02/19/from-feral-to-sterile-hyde-park-cat-lovers-trap-neuter-and-release/

FAQ

2009-03-14T20:19:00.001-07:00

General FAQs

Q: What does Hyde Park Cats do?

Hyde Park Cats is a diverse group of people who care about the issues surrounding outdoor cats. We care about cats, and we care about the community, too. We practice ‘TNR’ or trap-neuter-return, a humane and increasingly widespread method of feline population control, try to educate and empower others to do the same, and along the way, we also try to help with lost-and-found or stray kitties.

hrough TNR, feral and stray cats are neutered or spayed and returned to their home --which happens to be the outdoors where they were found. Since a breeding pair of cats can produce 420,000 offspring in seven years each act of TNR makes a difference. Also, with TNR (privately funded and volunteer driven), taxpayers are relieved of the onerous cost of paying for the mass euthanization of unwanted cats and kittens.

HPC members are engaged in the following activities:

*TNR of feral/abandoned cats
*fostering and finding ‘forever’ homes for non-feral stray/abandoned cats and kittens
*continuing feeding of feral cat colonies
*local awareness and education campaigns
*creative cat-helping, like making cat shelters

You can learn more about TNR at Alley Cat Allies, a national organization. And if you are contemplating calling Animal Control about a feral cat situation, please consider your options carefully. Animal Control is a death sentence for most cats, and mass euthanization has not proven effective at reducing feline populations in general.

Q: How do I volunteer with HPC?

If you want to volunteer, write to hydeparkcats@gmail.com. You will also be invited to join our Googlegroup, which sends out messages to members regarding all manner of feral/stray cat issues.

Typical volunteer activities include TNR work (trapping, neutering, and returning feral cats), fostering recovering from surgery, fostering found stray housecats, helping to find homes for strays, posting informational fliers, feeding outdoor cats, educating neighbors about TNR methods, socializing animals at AWL, etc.

Q: Can I foster a cat?

Yes. We are always looking for good foster homes. Email hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com for our foster application.

Q: I’d like to help socialize cats for Hyde Park Cats; can I come over to play with them sometimes?

Sorry! Since HPC is not a shelter and exists under no single roof, this is not possible. Cats awaiting adoption and needing socialization are kept in private foster homes. We do support trips to Animal Welfare League at 62nd and Wabash. You can come to one of our group trips there or go yourself, anytime. The animals there are desperate for attention.

Q: I suspect a neighborhood animal is being abused … what should I do?

Please call the Anti-Cruelty Society of Chicago at (312) 644-8338 ext. 305, or email them at abuse@anticruelty.org. You can remain anonymous if you wish. See this information.

II. Feral Cat Issues

Q: How can you tell if a cat is ‘feral’?

Feral cats are wild cats. A quick definition of a feral cat is that it is ‘unadoptable’ because it has not been socialized (and thus likely to be euthanized if you take it to a shelter), unaffectionate, and perhaps aggressive (if pestered). But note: even ‘mean’ feral cats can have happy lives living outside, often enjoying the company of other neutered feral cats, and appreciating—from a distance—the efforts of their human caretakers. That said, it is often hard to tell whether a cat is truly feral or not. Many cats living outside are stray or abandoned pets who grew up indoors; such cats are not well equipped to ‘fend for themselves’ outside and face slow starvation, attacks from other animals, and getting hit by cars.

Non-feral cats are more likely to eventually approach human caretakers and even allow guarded physical contact. These cats may be resocialized through foster care.

Q: Can I help feed some Hyde Park community feral cats?

Yes. Sometimes colony caretakers may need assistance for a short time. Or the need for long-term feeding plans may arise as we map out colonies. Just follow the blog to find out where various feral cats are living, and write in to ask if you can help. We definitely need volunteers and partners for "south of the midway" to 62nd Street (our self-appointed boundary).

Q: I am already feeding feral cats ... what's next?

It's wonderful to feed the cats, but the next step is TNR! Get in touch with us and read the TNR FAQ.

You can register as a ‘Feral Cat Colony Caretaker’ with a sponsor (the sponsor being, for instance, PAWS or Treehouse). PAWS application form.
Treehouse's Ferals pages.

Q: What can I say to neighbors to help them understand why TNR is good for the community?

Many people are unaware of the feral cats right in their midst, and others may have a wide range of genuine concerns. Talk to your neighbors. We have some great pamphlets we can send you (in small numbers; bilingual English-Spanish).

Learn more about feral cat behavior, learn how TNR is helping cats everywhere, and learn how to help people understand how to live happily near feral cat colonies by visiting Alley Cat Allies. Remember, you don’t have to convert every individual into a cat-lover, just try to show people that humane solutions exist.

III. Lost and Found

Q: I lost my cat. What should I do?

See this info from Lost and Pound

But here is a Hyde Park-specific list of what to do:

1. Act quickly (same day). But make sure they are not hiding INSIDE your home.
2. Quickly check all around your block. Bring food with you.
3. Understand that lost cats often immediately get scared and excited. They may not come when you call (though certainly give it a try), they may not come for food, they may run from people (even from you!).
4. A humane trap may be the quickest way to regain your cat. You can rent a trap, or borrow one (contact HPC).
5. Post fliers ASAP. Cats can roam far, very quickly, even old, debilitated cats. Post at supermarkets, bookstores, parks, convenience stores, pet stores, restaurant waiting areas, and major pedestrian intersections. Include a picture and phone number ‘tags’.
A good description is very concise, and includes the following: color(s), pattern type, long-hair/short-hair, approximate age, male/female, where lost and when, microchip/collar, favorite food.

NOTE: Take your flyer down when your cat is found.

6. Hyde Park Herald: yes, but they post notices only once a week. Deadline: Monday at 2pm. If your cat disappears on Tuesday, a lost notice won’t appear until the following Wednesday (8 days later).
7. craigslist, marketplace.uchicago.edu, the Chicago Reader (online and free) and of course http://hydeparkcats.blogspot.com .
8. Don’t give up after two weeks, or two months. It may take someone several months to win your cat’s trust. Keep checking the papers.
9. Visit shelters. Some have online photos of ‘adoptable cats’—check them out.
10. Keep checking found notices everywhere. Don’t post lost notices and just wait to hear.
11. Start locally, but remember—cats can jump into moving vans and ride cross country. Microchips are helpful here…but pets911.com is a national website for lost pets.
12. Do not wire/send money to anyone. If you offer a reward, make sure you get your pet back first.
13. Don’t assume any vet or shelter will call you if they ‘find’ your cat. They see too many cats. You must go to them to check.

Q: I found a cat (non-feral, socialized). What should I do?

1. If you take the cat into your home, keep it separate from your other cats.
2. Place the cat in the smallest possible room with a litter box and food. Otherwise, you may not know where it is going. A guest bathroom is a good option—something with a door and tile floors. Note: Scared cats may urinate on your couch!

If you want to keep the cat, legally speaking, you are obligated to attempt to find the owner, so:
3. Contact HPC about it (send photo).
4. Place an ad in the Hyde Park Herald, the Chicago Reader, and marketplace.uchicago.edu.
5. Take the cat to a vet to be scanned for a microchip (this alone, with no exam, should be free).
6. Post fliers around the block where you found the cat
7. Post fliers elsewhere (vet, pet store, grocery store)

IV. Adoption

Q: How can I adopt a cat from you?

Write to us at hydeparkcatsadoptions@gmail.com for an adoption application.

Q: I have/know of a cat that needs a new home. Can you help me find it a new home?

HPC focuses its efforts on placing strays, aiding feral colonies, and TNR. We can't take in a cat that already has a home. We can put a homeless kitty in need "up" on the blog, but recommend you contact a no-kill shelter such as PAWS or Treehouse.

Q: Where else can I adopt a cat?

There are a number of shelters, both "no-kill" and ... "traditional" in the Chicago area. Go to Petfinder to search. One of our astute readers suggested that, ideally, one could
adopting a cat from the pound (thus saving it from being killed) and make a monetary donation to a no-kill shelter too. Of course, not everyone can afford that. And if we don't adopt from no-kill shelters, they'll fill to bursting! So the choice of where to adopt is up to you; the important thing is to choose a pet who fits your lifestyle and personality.

V. More Ways of Helping

Q: How can I donate money to Hyde Park Cats?

Definitely! We take cash or checks made out to "Hyde Park Cats." Contact us at hydeparkcats@gmail.com for an address. Or use our Paypal button on the front page.

Q: Can I donate cat food to Hyde Park Cats?

Yes—food is always appreciated. Write to hydeparkcats@gmail.com for information on where to drop it off. Wet and dry food are both needed. We'll even take dog food.

Q: I have some ideas about how to help you raise money and/or awareness for Hyde Park Cats … can I share them with you?

Always welcome. Just email hydeparkcats@gmail.com.

VI. Miscellaneous Information and Other Notable Websites

If you need assistance providing cat food for your cats, please seethis list of where to get help.

National Feral Cat Day is October 16th (and all year round). What will you do this year?

Ally Cat Allies has everything there is to know about feral cats

www.lostandpound.com
www.pets911.com

IN CHICAGO

www.anticruelty.org
www.pawschicago.org
www.treehouseanimals.org

Where can I get help with pet food?

2009-02-23T11:41:00.000-08:00

Q: I need help providing pet food to my pet(s). Where can I get help with pet food?

The Animal Welfare League
6224 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.

Offers a food pantry the last Thursday of every month from noon to 3 p.m. It is open to people age 65 and older, or those on public assistance. Call 773-667-0088 or go to Animal Welfare League website

PAWS Chicago
1997 N. Clybourn Ave.
Call first for an appointment: 773-475-9426 or go to PAWS website

Treehouse Humane Society, a no-kill cat shelter, 1212 W. Carmen Ave., Chicago, has a cat food pantry. Call 773-784-5488 x 221 or go to Treehouse website. Dog and cat food are both available.

Paw Pals Inc, 131 N. 6th Street, Quincy IL.
It operates Monday-Thursday 3:30-5:30 PM at . The phone number is (217) 228-7441 http://www.quincypawpals.org.

Trap, Neuter & Return (TNR) FAQ

2009-02-23T09:39:00.000-08:00

TNR FAQ

We advise reading one of these excellent websites to learn more about TNR.

Alley Cat Allies (a national organization)

Treehouse (Chicago)

PAWS Chicago

Please attend a workshop on TNR/Helping Community Cats.

TNR/Helping Community Cats Workshop Calendar

*****

Frequent questions:
Where should I get a humane trap?

You can borrow humane traps from Tree House or PAWS Chicago.

How do I safely and humanely trap a feral cat?

You should familiarize yourself with the trap before attempting to use it. It is important to NEVER leave a set trap unattended for more than a few minutes at a time.

Plan to trap the night before or early the morning of your appointment (no appointment necessary for ferals at ACS).

Trapping early in the morning or at dusk are the best times but it is most important to trap during the times when you normally see the cat or feed the cat. You may want to withhold food for a day or two before trapping to improve your chances of luring the cat into the trap with food.

If you trap opossums, raccoons, skunks or other wildlife release them immediately.

After you have the cat in a trap, keep him/her indoors where he will be safe from predators and the elements. Safe places include garages & sheds, inside a spare room in the home,possibly in a van (crack the windows for ventilation, and only use vehicles if the temperature outside are not too hot or cold). If you don’t have much space consider keeping the trap in the bathtub. Set up the area by lining the ground with a plastic sheet or tarp with newspapers on top. Make sure that all entrances to the room are closed.

Do not give food to the cat the night prior to surgery. Cats should have an empty stomach to prevent nausea caused by the anesthesia. Water should be provided while the cat is not in transport. You can insert a small bowl of water into the end of the trap by slowly opening the back door and sliding it in. Feral cats will be afraid and will likely cower and hiss at the back of the trap. You can also use a bunch of wooden spoons -- insert them in the cage to form a bit of a barrier so the cat can't dart out. Quickly close the door when finished.

Before transporting the cat to his appointment, remove the water bowl just as quickly and carefully as you placed it inside or you can use a wire hangar to spill the water out onto the newspaper if you don’t want to open the door again. You can also use an unbent wire hangar to slowly upright overturned bowls. Use a water bottle to fill the water bowl and slide in filled food bowls or drop the food in through the holes in the trap. A funnel may also come in handy.

The cat will not die of dehydration overnight, so if in doubt, leave it out.

How do I fit a litter box in the trap?

With an adult cat in the trap, adding a litter box does not leave much space for food or for the cat to lie down. Those with small kittens may fit a small 9"x9" aluminum baking pan or a similar small container filled with litter through the rear of the trap (the side with the flat back panel). Feral cats/kittens may or may not use the litter box.

It's easier & more convenient to let the cats eliminate onto the newspaper beneath the trap. They will usually use the back of the trap, since their food is at the front. When it is time to clean up, place fresh newspaper next to the trap, pick it up and place it on the fresh newspaper. Roll up the soiled paper and toss it in the garbage.

After the cat has been released, the traps will have to be disinfected. Hose & bleach them down outside your home, or you can bring them to a carwash.

Can I trap during winter?

Yes. Winter is a good time to trap because there is a lull in breeding, especially in colder climates like here in Chicago. If you can get a colony finished before February or March it will be well worth it. Peak breeding season starts in February. Keep your shaved females inside at least three days post-surgery.

How should I care for the cats after surgery?

The cats must be kept warm and dry since they will not be able to regulate their body temperatures after surgery. Ideally, they would be kept at room temperature. If that's not possible, they can be kept in a garage or shed with blankets wrapped around the traps, leaving an opening for air circulation. You can also stuff a towel or small blanket in the trap as an extra comfort. You may want to use portable heaters and heat lamps in cold weather conditions but be sure to keep them away from flammable objects.

It is also a good idea to elevate the traps off the ground a few inches by placing the trap on 2x4s or on a wide & sturdy bench or table, or put several layers of carpet remnants, cardboard or something similar on the ground and cover with plastic sheets, topped off with newspaper to provide insulation.

Remember to keep newspaper on the floor of the trap and under the trap to absorb waste. It is also extremely important to make sure that the cats get plenty of water to prevent dehydration and they should be eating well and eliminating before release.

How long should I wait before releasing the cats back to their territory?

If all goes well, we recommend keeping males for one day during warm weather and 2 days during winter. Females usually need at least one day more than males. Keep cats in their traps for the recovery period. Generally, if the cats are eating, drinking and eliminating regularly they should be ready for release.

Please understand that it is detrimental to the cat’s mental and physical health to keep them inside for any longer than necessary. Confining a feral cat for longer periods can be detrimental to the cat's mental, and therefore physical, well-being. As long as the sutures are still in place and there is no excess bleeding they should be ready to go in a day or two. If you have any doubts, call the facility where the surgery was performed. Be sure that the cats eat and drink plenty before releasing them since they may stay away for a few days after being released.

Should I trap a pregnant cat?

Yes, we recommend trapping and spaying pregnant cats. Remember, Animal Care and Control euthanizes more feral kittens than any other animals and shelters are flooded with kitten admission requests throughout the year. Female kittens may start to mate as young as four months of age, and the queens may start to mate again about 8-10 weeks after delivery. It is important to understand that the cat is not emotionally connected to her unborn kittens. She reproduces out of instinct. If anything, birthing kittens brings more stress to her life as she needs to work hard enough just to survive on her own.