Friday, September 18, 2009


FIV is the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus.

Virologists classify feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) as a lentivirus (or "slow virus"). FIV acts slowly, over a course of years, to erode a cat's immune system. It cannot be passed to humans, or dogs or any other animal than cats, and cat-cat transmission is possible only through deep bite wounds, infected gums, etc. It cannot be transferred by licking, sharing a litter box, etc. FIV+ cats can live long and healthy lives.

Please read more about FIV in this page from Treehouse

More good info from Best Friends

FIV Quick Facts:

FIV is not communicable to humans, dogs or other species.

FIV+ cats are not sick. FIV is a virus that causes their immune systems to be compromised, but is not an illness itself.

FIV+ cats' life expectancies are not significantly shorter than other cats that do not have FIV. With good care, they can live as long as any other cat.

Adopting an FIV+ cat, does not mean that you will be spending more money on medical expenses than a non positive cat.

FIV is transmitted from one cat to another by contact with bodily fluids, such as fighting among males that have not been neutered. Intact tomcats fight to hurt each other and inflict deep puncture wounds -- this is where the virus is spread. Normal playing, or even the occasional skirmish, is highly unlikely to cause infection.

All cats require a high quality diet; FIV cats are no different. A high-quality diet will help your cat stay healthy.

Some people believe FIV+ cats should not be vaccinated, since a vaccine is a "hit" to the cat's (already less than 100%) immune system. Please consult your veterinarian.

As with any cat, FIV+ cats should be examined by a veterinarian annually, and get regular blood work and dentals as needed.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Help! I found a kitten!

Help! I found a kitten!

Mazel tov, you found a kitten.

If the mother cat is with the kittens and seems to be in good health, super. She will do a lot of the work for you, and your task will be to make sure she's healthy by taking her to the veterinarian right away; next, that she's nursing all the kittens and attending to their cleaning.

But what if you found just some kittens? Take them in. If they are outside they will grow up to be feral cats and contribute to the feral-cat problem. HOWEVER -- it is possible to use those kittens to trap the mother cat. Please let us know as soon as possible and we can try to set up a trapping situation.

There are times when you find just a kitten and it seems like the right thing to do to bring it inside. Now you have to care for it! Your kitten should go as soon as possible to the vet for assessment and to get a dose of Revolution, which kills ear mites, internal parasites, and fleas.

You can tell their age very approximately by several methods. If they still have their umbilical cords they are probably between 1 and 3 days old. If their eyes are still closed they are probably between 1 and 10 days old. By 10 days their eyes should be open. Open their mouths and look for teeth. Do you see little nubs coming in? About 2 weeks. Are they attempting to stand? Possibly 2 to 3 weeks. Are they starting to play? Figure their age at about 4 weeks.

You'll want to arrange a "nest" for your kittens. This can be a carrier, a basket, or even a cardboard box lined with clean towels. If you have other cats in your home, the kittens MUST be isolated in a separate room, and you MUST wash your hands both before and after caring for them. It might be easiest to put them in a small room, such as a bathroom.

Basic Needs of Newborn Kittens

A chilled kitten can die quickly, and is considered a veterinary emergency. You can warm the kitten by holding it next to your own skin, or by using a heating pad, set to "Low", well-wrapped with a thick towel or flannel sheet. Make sure there is plenty of unheated surface in the box so the kittens can move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Feeding a chilled kitten can be fatal, so wait until its temperature is up to its normal range of 95° F to 99° F before attempting to feed it. If a kitten's temperature falls below 94° F it must be warmed gradually to avoid metabolic shock. At the same time, give it Pedialyte (the same stuff sold for human babies) to hydrate it and prevent shock.

You'll need K.M.R. or equivalent, available from pet stores, and a feeder of some sort (either a bottle, syringe, or eye-dropper.) The K.M.R. box will include instructions for feeding by weight of the kitten. Tiny babies will need to eat as many as 12 meals around the clock, so plan on 2 a.m. feedings.

At three weeks or so, you can start training the babies to eat food in a dish. Do so by mixing either dry or canned kitten food with the milk forumula and moosh it until it is a thick liquid. Go ahead and use your blender, and pretend you're making a milkshake. You'll probably need to "prime" the kitty by putting a bit of the mixture on your finger tip, then showing her the saucer. As the kitten learns to eat and enjoy her "mush", you can gradually reduce the amount of milk replacement forumla.

Finally, she can graduate to solid kitten food. Ideally, you should start kittens out with a premium brand of canned kitten food. Canned food remaining in the can should be covered and refrigerated immediately after opening, and the next serving can be warmed in a microwave for just a minute or so. Uneaten canned food in the plate should also not be left out after the kitten has had her fill, as it can spoil rapidly. Since kittens' tummies are small, the best plan is to give four or five small meals a day. Some cat owners provide dry food to be eaten at will, supplemented with a small serving of canned food once or twice a day, however for optimum nutritional benefits, a canned diet is better.

At the same time your kitten is learning to eat from a dish, she can also learn to drink water from a dish. Use a sturdy ceramic bowl and place it where the kitten can find it easily. You may have to dabble your fingers in the water at first to show the kitten what it is. Don't be surprised if there is a little splashing and water fun before kitty discovers it is to be taken internally.


Nurturing consists of the various tasks the mother kitten would perform, and also includes bonding with the kitten.

Elimination - Newborns need help in moving their bowels and flushing their kidneys. The mother cat does this by washing their tushies (bums) with her tongue. You can accomplish the same by holding the kitty (put a towel over your lap first) and gently stroking its body with a rough towel or wash cloth. Do the same thing with its abdomen and tush. You should be rewarded with a bowel movement after every meal and soon will not need to give this assistance.

Kitty Massage - Same thing, only lightly stroke the kitty's whole body, starting with its head, around the cheeks and chin, shoulders, limbs, and finally back and belly. Massage is a good way to bond with your baby, and will prepare him for adapting more easily to a new home, if that is in his future.

Grooming - The mother cat combines grooming with massage by using the rough tongue given her by nature. You can use a soft brush to brush your kitten's hair - another tool for bonding. Also, if very young kittens have fleas, use a flea comb to gently comb them out. (Be sure to put a towel or newspaper under the kitten to catch the fleas and flea dirt.

The Litter Box

Kittens will normally take to the litterbox as quickly as ducks to water. Use a low-sided box, like the lid to a shoe box would work. A pellet-type litter is generally recommended, but not the clumping style. Kittens will experiment with eating litter and the clumping type is murder on the intestines. Once the kitten starts eating on its own, just put her in the box around 15 minutes after eating. Scratch the litter a bit with your finger to show her what it's all about. If she hops out, put her back in again a couple times, then leave her alone. If she makes a mistake and poops on the floor, pick a small amount up and put it in the box to show her where it belongs. She'll get the idea sooner or later, and more likely sooner.

Veterinary Care

Newborns should be examined by your veterinarian at the earliest possible time. Litters from ferals or of unknown parentage often suffer from fleas and other parasites, and do not have the normal natural immunity passed on in early weeks from vaccinated mother cats. While kittens nursing a protected queen get their first "shots" around six to eight weeks, orphaned/feral kittens may be immunized at two to three weeks. Of course, kittens showing signs of distress, such as prolonged chilling, watery eyes or running nose, lethargy or failure to eat, should be seen immediately by a veterinarian.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Lost a cat (in Hyde Park)?

Q: I lost my cat. What should I do?

Email our Lost-and-Found Coordinator: so we can put the word out on our listserve, blog, and Facebook page! A picture is very helpful, of course.

See this info from Lost and Pound

But here is a Hyde Park-specific list of what to do:

1. Make sure the cat is not in a closet, hallway, neighbor's apartment, etc. We have had many lost-cat reports where the cat was in the closet/foyer/neighbor's apartment.

2. Quickly check all around your block. Bring food with you.

3. Post fliers ASAP at 6-10 blocks. Include a picture and phone number ‘tags’. Do NOT put Hyde Park Cats contact info on your poster.

A good description is very concise, and includes the following: color(s), pattern type, long-hair/short-hair, approximate age, male/female, where lost and when, microchip/collar, favorite food.

NOTE: Fliers may be torn down within days of posting.

4. Hyde Park Herald: they post notices only once a week. Deadline: Monday at 2pm. If your cat disappears on Tuesday, a lost notice won’t appear until the following Wednesday (8 days later).

5. Post on craigslist,, the Chicago Reader (online and free)
6. Don’t give up after two weeks, or two months. It may take someone several months to win your cat’s trust. Keep checking the papers.

7. Visit shelters. Some have online photos of ‘adoptable cats’—check them out.

8. Keep checking found notices everywhere. Don’t post lost notices and just wait to hear.

9. Start locally, but remember—cats can jump into moving vans and ride cross country. Microchips are helpful here…but is a national website for lost pets.

10. BEWARE OF SCAMS. Do not wire/send money to anyone. If you offer a reward, make sure you get your pet back first.

11. Don’t assume any vet or shelter will call you if they ‘find’ your cat. They see too many cats. You must go to them to check.